TRT18NRHW1 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

Bought a new
capacitor.

There are 3 parts that actually control cooling cycle: Temperature Thermostat, Defrost Timer and sensor/relay on the back side of the appliance. If fridge cycles up after you turn small knob on defrost time (you'll hear click, problem lies between first two components.
Replacing them is really easy. Make sure you handle thermostat wire carefully. Check for connectors holding firm.
Use schematic diagrams you may find at this site.

Good luck.

The Roper part was no longer available and a substitute was not recommended. But because of the excellant descriptions and photos on Part Select I was able to find a Fridgedaire part that looked exactly like the one I needed to replace. I it fit perfectly... I am impressed and have bookmarked your site for later purchases.
The thermostat is located at the top of the refridgerator compartmennt under the freezer. Remove light bulb to access the screw at the back of the thermostat/defrost timer housing. Remove screw and slide the assembly to the back to release the 2 tabs holding the front. Remove the temperature control knob on the thermostat, remove the 3 wires connected to the thermostat noting where which wire goes for re-assembly. Using a philips #2 screwdriver, remove the 2 screws under the temperature control knob and remove the thermostat. Do not lose the screws, the new thermostat does not have mounting hardware. Piece of cake, Ice cream cake if you get the freezer working again.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I removed the screw holding the assembly to the roof of the refrigerator and pulled it dow. I took out the two screws holding the Temp control, removed the three wires and reversed the process to reassemble. Works great now!

Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Door would not stay closed so I decided to replace the gasket... The new gasket install was easy and quick. I removed the liner and took off the old gasket, placed the new gasket on the liner and reinstalled the liner. However that did not fix the original issue of the door not closing. I followed all the instructions listed on the web site but none corrected the problem. The door on this model has no adjustment. So I adjusted the leveling wheels to tilt off center towards the back. That helped but still did not resolve the problem... I then closed the door slowly to see if it was being interfered with, As it turns out it was being hit by the bottom of the inside of the refrigerator. Since I could not adjust the door, I used the front leveling wheels to compensate for the lack of door adjustment. I slowly kept adjusting the w heels to see what effect it had. I finally adjusted them to the point were the door now closes and seals on its own. I’m guessing that over time the liner became malformed and caused the door to hit the inside of the refrigerator. After it started working I checked the level side to side and front to back. Side to side is good and there is a slight tilt to the rear.

removed back cover from freezer to replace defrost stat. removed cover from refrigerator to replace defrost timer

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.

Make sure unplugged the frig before doing any repair. Just like other DIYers. opened up the evaporator located inside the freezer. Replaced the defrost thermostat, there's only 2 wires, so just make sure which is positive, which is negative. Replaced the defrost timer located on the bottom front of the frig. There's on 2 screws to unscrew. All those work took me less than half hour. Turn on the frig., now it works like a champ again. Hope it will last another 10 years.

Removed the old drawer. Put the front on the drawer which ws a little tricky but with the help of a screw driver to gently pry the drawer the front went on easy.
Put the drawer in the refrigerator.

Just like that.

Tapping on the thermostat control would start the compressor, but after cycle was complete it would not start again on it's own. Seemed like a slam-dunk that the control contacts were worn out. PS had the right part in stock, and it arrived quickly. Nearly identical to the original part, it installed without any problems. One minor glitch, though - the mounting tabs are tapped for #6 screws, but the original screws were #4. Since no hardware was included, I had to dig up larger screws to make it work. Not a big deal at all - but it would be handy to include these screws. Works just like the original, maintains inside temp just fine. A no-brainer for 65 bucks. This fridge is 15+ years old, and now serves as a beer cave. Cold beers for everyone!

just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.