TRT16NRHW1 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

I took a look at the web site where I purchased the parts, then I took a look at the paper enclosed with the order. Thankfully, I have a battery operated screw driver since there are so many screws. There are plenty of screws in my refrigerator and freezer doors. I thought that since my old door gaskets were all chewed up looking, if I changed them, the 10 year old air conditioners and the old fashioned light bulbs to instant on energy saver light bulbs, the electric bill would become more manageable.

The refrigerator and freezer door gaskets were the first step. They were easy to swap out. You just need to empty the door of all food items, then pull back the old gasket to see the screws. There are alot of them. You should leave 2 loosened screws on each side of the refrigerator door to hold the panel in place while you work and remove the rest. Then you can remove the old gasket and slide the new one into place. Make sure as you tighten the screws and replace the ones you removed, the new gasket fits into the door panel groove securely and is in place as you tighen the screws. Make sure it is in place all the way around the door as you work. You repeat the procedure for the freezer using only one loosened screw on each side to keep the interior panel in place while you work. It takes some time due to the number of screws, but the work is pretty easy. I never even broke a nail.

The end caps for the shelf bars just snap into place just as the old ones can be snapped out with a bit of pressure. They do not have to be wrestled and you need to work carefully so that you do not break them. (I ordered an extra just in case, but I didn't need it. I will have it in case I need it in the future)

My electric bill dropped from $450 to $110 a month with all the improvements I made. Thank you Part Select for taking the fear of screwing it up, out of the repair process and making it manageable. I can afford my electric bill now. Thanks for your help.

Bought a new
capacitor.

1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver.
3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed)
4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days.
5. Plugged in the new thermostat..
6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver.
7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on.
8. It is working again!!!

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you

took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.

just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.

I watched the video online. It was so easy! All I needed was a screwdriver. It looks great.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

The end caps worked perfectly for both the Frigidaire and Westinghouse fridges. Just pulled out the old end caps and then literally just pushed in the new ones (remember to attach the shelf bar before attaching the second end cap!). The pieces arrived quicker than expected. Thanks Partselect!

Replaced both the thermostat and defrost timer and still froze up and still warm air to the fridge, turned out to be the defrost heater coil. It was cracked in the middle, very easy to test with a multimeter. Replaced the heater coil and all is like new!

I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.