TRT18GREW4 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

I secured the power to the fridge. I took the metal panel which covers the cooling coils in the freezer off by removing the the 6 sheet metal screws. I used a standard hair dryer to melt the ice block which had formed due to the failure of the defrost timer. I replace the defrost timer, which was located behind the left front wheel of the unit. Finding the timer was the hardest part of the job. Since I was having trouble with the defrost cycle I also decided to replace the defrost thermostat due to its age. The most important item I would like to share is once all the work is done and the panel is back in the freezer, the power is restored take a straight slot screw driver and give the defrost timer about an eighth of a turn clockwise to ensure it starts. Then mark it with a sharpe and check it in 3 or 4 hours to make sure it is running. I did not do this on the one I installed and the freezer did not go into the defrost cycle. Once I got the timer started, well the ice cream stay frozen. BE SURE NOT TO WORK ON YOUR EQUIPMENT WITH IT PLUGGED INTO POWER SOURCE!!!

Jim

The end caps worked perfectly for both the Frigidaire and Westinghouse fridges. Just pulled out the old end caps and then literally just pushed in the new ones (remember to attach the shelf bar before attaching the second end cap!). The pieces arrived quicker than expected. Thanks Partselect!

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

Removed old gasket. tried to mount new gasket with a few screws, but weight of new gasket created a sag, so I removed door and laid on a table. Installed new gasket, as it layed flat and square on the table. Installation became a simple job.

I put the refrigerator and saw that the fan wasn't working so I change the fan and the problem still the same. I order a timer and thermostat and change them, nothing change so I order the capacitor and when I remove it I saw that the relay swith was burn out so I order a switch and evarything is ok.
The problem when the fan broke the compressor overheat and burn the swich.
I learn a lot and still saving money over these repair guy.

Thanks

I removed the plastic cowl in the rear of the freezer to gain access to the fan, took out two screws that secured the brackets holding the fan. Then I separated the coupling wires which had a sort of locking mechanism that was simple to undue. I took out the brackets along with the fan, separated the brackets and removed the screw for the ground wire. Then I simply reversed the process.

Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

ordered the glass and installed it

I unscrewed the old handle. lined up the new handle and screwed it back in.

Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.