TRT22MRHW2 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old fan--three small nuts and snap off connection. Ordered part and received the next day. Your company is great!!

I secured the power to the fridge. I took the metal panel which covers the cooling coils in the freezer off by removing the the 6 sheet metal screws. I used a standard hair dryer to melt the ice block which had formed due to the failure of the defrost timer. I replace the defrost timer, which was located behind the left front wheel of the unit. Finding the timer was the hardest part of the job. Since I was having trouble with the defrost cycle I also decided to replace the defrost thermostat due to its age. The most important item I would like to share is once all the work is done and the panel is back in the freezer, the power is restored take a straight slot screw driver and give the defrost timer about an eighth of a turn clockwise to ensure it starts. Then mark it with a sharpe and check it in 3 or 4 hours to make sure it is running. I did not do this on the one I installed and the freezer did not go into the defrost cycle. Once I got the timer started, well the ice cream stay frozen. BE SURE NOT TO WORK ON YOUR EQUIPMENT WITH IT PLUGGED INTO POWER SOURCE!!!

Jim

just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

I believe that before you do this job check the operation of the door and maybe all it needs is to be adjusted. This may be caused by the weight of product on the door or someone holding down on the handle could have caused misalignment. I noticed this when reinstalling the door, I needed to adjust the swing of the door by realigning the upper mounting bolts in the slotted plate to make the door close securely.
But what I did was:removed the freezer door which required removing 2 bolts. Then removed the door panel by removing 8 screws. Removed the old gasket. siliconed in the new gasket, replaced the panel, rehung the door and adjusted the closing of it with the slotted bracket/hindge assembly.

removed old seal by taking out all screws around door. put on new seal and tighten screws back on door.. I warmed up with warm hair dryer to form tight to door.
extra easy.. my husband was worried, but looking at diagram on computer I knew it would be easy..

I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.

I put the refrigerator and saw that the fan wasn't working so I change the fan and the problem still the same. I order a timer and thermostat and change them, nothing change so I order the capacitor and when I remove it I saw that the relay swith was burn out so I order a switch and evarything is ok.
The problem when the fan broke the compressor overheat and burn the swich.
I learn a lot and still saving money over these repair guy.

Thanks

Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.

I removed the plastic cowl in the rear of the freezer to gain access to the fan, took out two screws that secured the brackets holding the fan. Then I separated the coupling wires which had a sort of locking mechanism that was simple to undue. I took out the brackets along with the fan, separated the brackets and removed the screw for the ground wire. Then I simply reversed the process.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.