HMG651587 Sharp Refrigerator - Instructions

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

Removed housing on the freezer side and removed the assembly by removing the two bottom clips and then unclipping the wire harness, two prong, and replaced as remvoved. Power was off of course. Watched for 24 hours and recovered housing and its been working great.

I noticed that the thin plastic flap was missing. I squeezed the housing, unsnapped and pulled. INstalling the new part was just the reverse. No more frozen vegetables.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then unscrewed the four remaining screws with a star screwdriver and pulled the element out and disconnected the wire. I removed the part containing the solenoid, spring loaded holder and the plastic closer. I did not need to replace the solenoid or the spring loading device only the round circular piece that opens and closes the ice door. I just snapped it into the spring loaded part and replaced everything as I had removed it. It was very simple. Your need the star screwdriver though for removing the screws.

This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repair worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.

First I unplugged the refrigerator, then next I removed the (4) screws holding in the inside back panel section of the freezer covering the cooling coils, the fan motor is attached to the removable panel.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.

Extremely easy install. Just popped off the cover located on the side of the compressor. Noted placement of the wires on the overload and relay. Took a small screwdriver to slide both from the electrical pins on the compressor...take care doing this. Unplugged the wires, plugged the new components to the wires and installed to the compressor. Plugged in the frig and the compressor came on. Not sure why these went out to begin with but the fix was extremely easy and saved me the expense of a repair man.

Easy to diagnose problem because there was water to the water dispenser but none to the newly installed icemaker. Originally did attempt to clean the solenoid but found the plunger assembly damaged.

New part arrived sooner than I thought it would. Takes about as much time to remove the lower vent cover as to replace the valve. Remove the electrical plug from the wall, valve off the main water supply, remove lower vent cover, disconnect the supply hose from refrigerator valve assembly, remove one hex head mounting screw and you have both water valves in your hands. Identify the valve the supplies water to the filter and the one that supplies water to the icemaker/water dispenser. Then confirm which plastic water supply line goes to the water dispenser and which goes to the icemaker. Hose diameters are different but it is good to know. Disconnect the plastic water supply lines from both the ice dispenser and the icemaker portions of the valve. Replacement solenoid valve does not have thread on type compression fittings. Snip about an inch off of each hose and then press into the appropriate valve orifice.

Making sure the plastic supply lines do not get crimped, remount the valve assembly, reattach the supply hose, valve on the water and check for leaks. No leaks, reinstall dust cover and plug the refrigerator back in.

Move the unit back in place and then take a long deserved beer out and have a celebratory toast for a job well done.

I took off the ice maker, disconected the wiring, took out the back of the freezer and took out the fan motor. Harder than I thought because of all the wiring back there, light, fan assembly etc. After that it was easy, took out the old motor & installed the new one. Runs much quieter now, and the fridge & freezer are much colder.
I did this for less than the price of a service call by a repair shop.

Removed the rubber cover over the actuator switch. Used a screwdriver to remove the switch, disconnected the wires. I then removed the switch from the mounting bracket using a small philips head screw driver. Installed the new switch on the mounting bracket then installed the switch onto the freezer door. The only difficult part was installing the rubber cover. Now I just need to repair the damage to my hardwood floors and carpet from all the water.

I called PartSelect and was greeted by a real live person instead of a recording. The lady was very helpful and kind. We decided on the part that I needed, and it arrived to my home in less time than she said it should. I completed the repair with the instructions provided in just a short time. My experience with PartSelect was positive, and it reminded me of the way businesses used to be. I highly recommend them.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.