RT14ZKYDW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

I was able to replace the the shelf bars with no difficulty after finding the right parts on PartSelect. The easy to view measuring menu helped me get the right size for the fit I needed. You always worry when you don't have the item in front of you but they make it easy to gauge. I will use them again. I replaced three bars that had been driving me crazy.

Took a little while to figure out that I needed a flat tip screwdriver to lift up on the top of the plastic housing in order to tip it forward and remove it. After that I used pliers to remove the wires from the old parts and place them on the new. Removing and replacing the parts was performed by hand.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the harness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!

First i unplugged the power. I changed the thermostat first. With a nut driver i removed the 14 screws and slid off the back panel inside the freezer compartment. I removed the old thermostat by unclipping it and disconnected the two wires it came with. I clipped in the new thermostat and reconnected the two wires. I slid the panel back on and put the screws back on. This took less than 10 minutes. It is so easy. My seven year old son can do this. I then proceeded to change the defrost timer. I have a built in so i removed the wood panel on top of the fridge to expose the timer. The timer was a bit hard to get to because its inside a metal housing on built ins. I removed as many screws on the front part of the housing until i was able to squeeze in my hand. I removed the two screws that attach it to the box and then unplugged it and slid it out. It was really stuck so i used a screw driver to loosen it from the plug. I plugged in the new on and screwed everything back in. It took about 20 minutes. If its not a built in refrigerator, it will take 5 minutes. I plugged the refrigerator back in and everything is perfectly cool and cold. It is really simple and cheap to change these parts. Don't get suckered into expensive repair bills.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Took the old fan out and put the new fan in.

I oringinally thought it was one of the thermostats b/c the freezer started to freeze again after unplugging it. But then the next day it stopped all together and I could hear a clicking noise in the back and the compressor never turned on. It would click at around 2 minutes then again about 17 seconds later. I took photos of the original wires in the connector to match up later. The new parts were not identical to the old. The red wire on the bottom fit fine but the other two wires would not go in the same terminal or numbered positions (1&4). For 2 reasons, 1, the blue female was too small for the male and 2) there was a male missing at position 4. After looking at the guts of the old connector I decided to get new females (2 trips b/c I didn't buy a big enough wire opening - needed 2 wires) and cut, splice & crimp them. I then put the two females on the top two males & plugged it in. No sparks or explosions... but silence. I waited a few minutes and then the fan kicked on and then the compressor started running. That was Sunday, it's now Thursday and things are working well.

Remove back cover of freezer compartment; Remove old fan assembly, new fan terminals did not exactly match old one so I had to remove one of the terminals from old fan and attach it to new fan/ then install new assembly and repaced freezer cover

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

Replaced air baffle between sections - part number PS321610. This part is quick connect with no wiring required. Start by turning off appliance using thermostat dial on freezer side. Remove cover for air baffle in upper left rear corner of refrigerator compartment. Remove wire harness cover between air baffle assembly and front upper control panel of refrigerator. Remove screw covers from under upper front control panel in refrigerator. May need to pry them off with a butter knife or thin screwdriver. Pull off thermostat dial. Unscrew mounting screws to remove upper front control panel cover. Pull out old air baffle assembly but do not unplug wire harness. Slide new air baffle assembly into position. Following the old part's wire harness, run wire harness for new part to point where old wire harness connects. Match up the old and new wire harness connections, unplug the old wire harness and plug in the new wire harness making sure the wires for the old and new correspond. Remove the old part and wire harness and secure the new part wire harness in the wire harness track. Reinstall the front control panel cover and thermostat dial and the screw hole covers. Reinstall the wire harness cover. Reinstall the baffle door cover. Turn the appliance on. You have now saved yourself a few hundred dollars in labor costs!

removed rear wall panel took off old fan motor disconnected motor. Installed new grommets re-installed motor inserted new fan. Didn't have to trim fan re-connected wires and rear panel and reconnected power. no problems...