RT14HDYGW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

Looked up the process on you yube and watched the repair video from the parts website

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Since the defrost timer turns the cooling functions on and off for each defrost cycle if seemed the most likely problem. That was confirmed by manually advancing the timer with a screw driver and the cooling functions would resume and run until the next defrost cycle (every 8 hours or so). The repair itself was to swap out the timer which took five minutes with a #2 phillips screw driver and a 1/4" nut driver. Once the timer was removed from the cover plate there's a simple plug-in connector to remove from the old and plug into the new timer. Two machine screws hold the timer in place behind the cover plate. Be sure switch the power off on the compressor cabinet before removing the cover plate.

Researching reasons for the freezer to not defrost, there were determined to be three potential causes: malfunctioning defrost timer, defective bi-metalic switch, or a defective defrost heater element. Research indicated that the most common source of the issue was a malfunctioning defrost timer. So, I purchased the defrost timer (which was the lowest cost option) and installed it, which took about 30 minutes. I would rate the replacement effort as "easy". Most of the time was spent collecting the proper tools and planning the repair. When placed back into service, the freezer did not appear to begin defrosting. I gave it about two days, and based upon visual evidence that the problem was NOT fixed, I removed the panels in the freeze to inspect the bi-metallic switch and the defrost heater. Using a VOM, I determined that the heating element was good; however, the bi-metallic switch appeared to be failed open, even after placing the switch in ice water while testing for continuity. So, I ordered a new bi-metallic switch which included a wiring harness. It took about 4-5 days to diagnose the problem, order, and receive the new switch. During this time, I did not have cause to inspect the freezer. Once received, I collected the needed tools and opened the freezer, only to find that the freezer was fully defrosted! So, in the final analysis, the defrost timer was the culprit! It apparently took 4-5 days for the defrost timer to cycle enough times into defrost to effect the true defrost of the freezer. Lesson learned: give the defrost timer time to do its job!

I checked the net. Said the temp control was the problem. Ordered and installed the temp control. Bottom still would not cool. Total waste of time and money. After checking realized fan in freezer was not working. Took it apart and exposed the fan. Pushed it and it started working. Wd 40ed it. Put it back together. Fan is working and the bottom is cooling. Check the fan first before you buy anything.

I oringinally thought it was one of the thermostats b/c the freezer started to freeze again after unplugging it. But then the next day it stopped all together and I could hear a clicking noise in the back and the compressor never turned on. It would click at around 2 minutes then again about 17 seconds later. I took photos of the original wires in the connector to match up later. The new parts were not identical to the old. The red wire on the bottom fit fine but the other two wires would not go in the same terminal or numbered positions (1&4). For 2 reasons, 1, the blue female was too small for the male and 2) there was a male missing at position 4. After looking at the guts of the old connector I decided to get new females (2 trips b/c I didn't buy a big enough wire opening - needed 2 wires) and cut, splice & crimp them. I then put the two females on the top two males & plugged it in. No sparks or explosions... but silence. I waited a few minutes and then the fan kicked on and then the compressor started running. That was Sunday, it's now Thursday and things are working well.

After learning the top and bottom part separate from the handle itself, all I needed to do was to take off the bottom part which was broken and replace the broken part with the new part , that was in a kit, I purchase from Whirlpool.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.