RT14DKYDN00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Just followed the video that you guys had on line . It was a very easy repair

I am a landlord and while getting apartment ready for renting, I noticed the broken shelf. I got part # etc. and the shelf came in one day. I was extremely satisfied with the prompt attention that I received.

After learning the top and bottom part separate from the handle itself, all I needed to do was to take off the bottom part which was broken and replace the broken part with the new part , that was in a kit, I purchase from Whirlpool.

Since the defrost timer turns the cooling functions on and off for each defrost cycle if seemed the most likely problem. That was confirmed by manually advancing the timer with a screw driver and the cooling functions would resume and run until the next defrost cycle (every 8 hours or so). The repair itself was to swap out the timer which took five minutes with a #2 phillips screw driver and a 1/4" nut driver. Once the timer was removed from the cover plate there's a simple plug-in connector to remove from the old and plug into the new timer. Two machine screws hold the timer in place behind the cover plate. Be sure switch the power off on the compressor cabinet before removing the cover plate.

Watched your AMAZNG detailed Video first. Ordered part received in two days,WOW! Pulled refrig. from wall unscrewed two screws, loosened third screw on hose, pulled hose out cut below metal incert. Took new part from package placed in back of refrig. placed new metal incert in hose replaced hose in new fitting. Turned water back on, plugged in refrig. No leaks pushed back to wall waited for while...VOILA!! ice cubes no mess to report. THANKS FOR SUCH AN AMAZING WEB SITE and SERVICE. TOM

Had no problem at all it took about 5 minutes to get the tray off and about 5 minutes to put new tray on.New part fit perfect. Thanks Robert Lovern

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

repair went well. Ice maker still not making ice. UGH

The most difficult problem was determining what part I needed.Once I was able to find the parts description, selecting the part was easy. Ordering the part was a simple matter of following the instructions. Imagine my surprise when I received the parts on the very next day!! The installation of the new parts was very easy. Thank you for keeping me from buying a new refrigerator.

Took a little while to figure out that I needed a flat tip screwdriver to lift up on the top of the plastic housing in order to tip it forward and remove it. After that I used pliers to remove the wires from the old parts and place them on the new. Removing and replacing the parts was performed by hand.