7RT18DKXFW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.

Removed back panel and removed the motor put new quick disconnect on and tapped the mounting holes. Removed and cleaned fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Mounted motor plugged it in and replaced panel.

Removed the back panel on the refrigerator--unplugged the condenser fan motor--removed the motor--placed a small fan to cool the condenser--called parts select--ordered the motor--the motor arrived less than 24 hours after I ordered it--replaced the motor and rear panel on the refrigerator--probably saved more than $200. 00--Very happy with parts select service--plus I had a misunderstanding with my credit card and john at parts select was very helpful --not their fault--excellent company

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

1 Measured new door handle against the existing handle brackets. The handle was longer than the space between the brackets.

2 Cut the handle to length to fit in between the brackets (cut off about 1-1/2").

3 Loosened the top handle bracket. Inserted the handle in the handle brackets.

4 Tightened the top bracket screws down, thereby sandwiching the handle between the top and bottom bracket. Repair Completed.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

My brother came up and installed the part.

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

I opened rear wall inside freezer (two screws) cut the wires on old thermostat and removed it. Then I attatched the new thermostat to the existing wires using wire nuts and electrical tape and slid it onto the copper tubing. Re-installed the rear wall. Freezer works like a charm and the refridgerator is also colder. Job completed in twenty minutes and Tim Allen has nothing on me. Mike Milne

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

Part fit perfectly glass dropped right in

After unplugging the appliance, I unscrewed the screws in the bottom and the back of the freezer compartment and un-clipped the connector for the ice machine, which i do not have installed. I clipped the pink and brown wires and replace the switch with the new switch. unfortunately, the appliance is still dripping water from the freezer compartment. It worked for a couple of days then stopped working. Still looking for a true FIX.