RT18AKXGW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Yvonne from Fredericksburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drawer cracked/split
I just slipped the new drawer into place. So easy, even a woman can do it! ( I am female!)
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- Customer:
- Scott from JAY, VT
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original drawer handle had cracked and the crack spread down to the body of the crisper unit.
Took out the old, cracked, crisper unit and removed the white trim piece on the handle so that we could re-use it on the new crisper unit (which, in spite of the $90+ price tag did not come with new trim). The whole thing took 3 minutes to do.
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- Customer:
- Darlene from Philadelphia, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP2254473
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
I had taken freezer door off when moving and misplaced the one of the hinges.
I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.
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- Customer:
- Leora O from PIERZ, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP2195916K
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
door Shelf end cap was broken
I just snapped it into place. Easy Peasy!!!!
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- Customer:
- Cathy from HOPATCONG, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
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- Customer:
- Bernard from DONALDSONVLLE, LA
- Parts Used:
- W11745278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
door hinge broke.
Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.
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- Customer:
- Eddie from BRONSTON, KY
- Parts Used:
- WP4387503
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My refrigerator would not defrost.
The first part I changed was the defrost timer but it did
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.
I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.
problem.
not solve the problem, I replaced the bi-metal defrost sensor
and I have the same problem.
I can defrost by turning the clock manually and heater works.
problem.
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from DUCHESNE, UT
- Parts Used:
- WP2218127K
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
No problems.
Order the part and just slide the pan in.
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- Customer:
- MATTHEW from STOCKTON, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4387478
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The Light Socket Burned Out.
I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.
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- Customer:
- Debra from Lakewood, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My Crisper Pan was broken so I needed a new one.
I ordered a new one waited for the new ones to come in once it did I took out the old ones and replaced them with the new ones. It was simple.
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- Customer:
- William from Fairfield Glade, TN
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer Cold - Refrigerator Warm
After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.
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- Customer:
- Xiaoping from KIRKLAND, WA
- Parts Used:
- W10854037
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no drawer
just insert
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- Customer:
- Carolee from Spokane Valley, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Light switch broke
Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.
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- Customer:
- William from LYNBROOK, NY
- Parts Used:
- 2159057
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Original door gasket split from age, no longer sealing snugly to refrig.
Inserted scraper behind gasket breaking it free from door, permitting a hand hold. While putting tension on gasket, slid scraper around door gently removing old gasket. Replaced gasket starting at top gradually working around door. No need to remove door.
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- Customer:
- Lynette from LOS ANGELES, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP10097204
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced a broken starter relay that was clicking
Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.
Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.
I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:
Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.
Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.
Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.
Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.
Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.
Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.
Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.
Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.
Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.
Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.
Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.
Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.
I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:
Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.
Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.
Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.
Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.
Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.
Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.
Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.
Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.
Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.
Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.
Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.
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Thank you for voting!