YRT14ZKYGW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the repair video. My son followed my instructions. He removed the ice-maker. The back panel was frozen, so we chipped and waited for the ice to thaw. There are three wires to remove from the old fan. My son used his cell phone to take a picture of the correct wiring. He used needle nose pliers to get the motor off the bracket. I used hot water to thaw the ice, so we could get the back panel to fit properly. If we weren't waiting for the ice to melt, we could have finished in about a half-hour. I'm 86 years old, and have carpel tunnel. My son is 63. Together, we make a good team.

much like yout video. However I got the mounting bracket upside down and had to do the job twice. When finished it worked perfectly. Great! However in Missouri outside temperature was over 100 and refrig was in shed. My beer got warm. Thank you.

Verified the defrost time and heating element were good and ordered parts. Parts were delivered way before I thought they would!! thank you PartSelect!! Had inside of freezer already apart, it takes a 5/8 driver to remove the three screws that hold the bottom plate and back cover. Then it's 2 clips that hold the front of the bottom plate, I used a small flat bladed screw driver to pull those up. The harness has several plugs and every thing is color coded (very easy to match which plug goes where). Un-clipped temp switch and plugged harness back in, re-assembled in side of freezer and plugged it back in, easy as can be.

I checked the net. Said the temp control was the problem. Ordered and installed the temp control. Bottom still would not cool. Total waste of time and money. After checking realized fan in freezer was not working. Took it apart and exposed the fan. Pushed it and it started working. Wd 40ed it. Put it back together. Fan is working and the bottom is cooling. Check the fan first before you buy anything.

1. I removed the plastic back cover panel in the freezer. 2. Took flash photos with my phone of the motor and wire configuration. 3. Removed noisy Evaporator fan bracket from freezer. 4. Removed Fan Blade from old Motor. 5. Removed old Motor from Bracket. 6. Installed New Motor into the bracket. 7. Installed the fan blade onto motor spindle. 8. Installed the bracket onto the back wall of freezer. 9. Noticed that the tab for the ground wire was inaccessible. 10. Cursed like Linda Blair in the Exorcist for about 5 minutes. 11. Repeated steps 3 - 5... 12. Unscrewed the ground tab and placed it on the opposite side and screwed it back in. 13. Repeated steps 6 & 7.... 14. Tried to install the bracket and motor back onto the freezer but the bracket screw holes weren't lining up. When I removed the motor to flip the ground tab over, I reinstalled the motor onto the bracket upside down. 15. Tear some hair out of my head. 16. Repeated steps 4 & 5 and flipped bracket over. 17. Repeated steps 6 - 8... 18. Placed wires onto tabs. 19. Ground wire would not stay securely onto the tab. 20. Slightly opened up metal fastener of ground wire with needle nose pliers and stuck it onto the tab. 21. Still not on there super tight. I gave up wrestling with it and just prayed it will stay on there anyway. 23. Turned on freezer to check if it works. 24. Reinstalled plastic back plate. 25. Put melted food back into freezer.

Researching reasons for the freezer to not defrost, there were determined to be three potential causes: malfunctioning defrost timer, defective bi-metalic switch, or a defective defrost heater element. Research indicated that the most common source of the issue was a malfunctioning defrost timer. So, I purchased the defrost timer (which was the lowest cost option) and installed it, which took about 30 minutes. I would rate the replacement effort as "easy". Most of the time was spent collecting the proper tools and planning the repair. When placed back into service, the freezer did not appear to begin defrosting. I gave it about two days, and based upon visual evidence that the problem was NOT fixed, I removed the panels in the freeze to inspect the bi-metallic switch and the defrost heater. Using a VOM, I determined that the heating element was good; however, the bi-metallic switch appeared to be failed open, even after placing the switch in ice water while testing for continuity. So, I ordered a new bi-metallic switch which included a wiring harness. It took about 4-5 days to diagnose the problem, order, and receive the new switch. During this time, I did not have cause to inspect the freezer. Once received, I collected the needed tools and opened the freezer, only to find that the freezer was fully defrosted! So, in the final analysis, the defrost timer was the culprit! It apparently took 4-5 days for the defrost timer to cycle enough times into defrost to effect the true defrost of the freezer. Lesson learned: give the defrost timer time to do its job!

Looked at your You Tube video and followed the instruction

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

I followed the instructions in the video on the PartSelect website. The only problem I ran into was that I couldn't switch the grounding tab connector from the original side of the motor to the other. I had to add more wire so that I could reach it in its new location.

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

took out the old fill tube installed the new one and its working great. I really did not think that was going to be the problem thought it would be more than that but it was not. It took about 7min to change thanks for the fast shipping I will use you in the future.