RT12DKXBW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

Remove back cover of freezer compartment; Remove old fan assembly, new fan terminals did not exactly match old one so I had to remove one of the terminals from old fan and attach it to new fan/ then install new assembly and repaced freezer cover

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the harness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

A TORX screw driver was needed (not a Phillips screw driver). The replacement of the broken door handle brackets took only 5 minutes. I was disapointed the the new replacement brackets were injection molded plastic rather than the cast metal brackets originally on the refrigerator.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th