YRT18VKXJW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I oringinally thought it was one of the thermostats b/c the freezer started to freeze again after unplugging it. But then the next day it stopped all together and I could hear a clicking noise in the back and the compressor never turned on. It would click at around 2 minutes then again about 17 seconds later. I took photos of the original wires in the connector to match up later. The new parts were not identical to the old. The red wire on the bottom fit fine but the other two wires would not go in the same terminal or numbered positions (1&4). For 2 reasons, 1, the blue female was too small for the male and 2) there was a male missing at position 4. After looking at the guts of the old connector I decided to get new females (2 trips b/c I didn't buy a big enough wire opening - needed 2 wires) and cut, splice & crimp them. I then put the two females on the top two males & plugged it in. No sparks or explosions... but silence. I waited a few minutes and then the fan kicked on and then the compressor started running. That was Sunday, it's now Thursday and things are working well.

much like yout video. However I got the mounting bracket upside down and had to do the job twice. When finished it worked perfectly. Great! However in Missouri outside temperature was over 100 and refrig was in shed. My beer got warm. Thank you.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Looked at your You Tube video and followed the instruction

I'm a 65 year old widow on a limited SS income, so I needed to get my refrigerator fixed as cheaply as possible. Partselect's troubleshooting guides took me right to the problem. I ordered the part on a Friday and it arrived the next Tuesday. It probably took me a little longer than it would a repairman, but I did it myself with just a screwdriver and a nut driver and it only cost me $45 instead of the $200 plus it costs my daughter to have someone else replace hers two years ago. Always remember to unplug amy electrical device before removing the covers or attempting any repair. All I had to do was remove the lower back cover on the refrigerator and, using the partselect diagram, locate the casing that covered the start relay and the overload switch on the left side of the compressor. I popped the casing off with the screwdriver, pulled the relay off (it's sits on two prongs), and remove the red terminal wire from the relay. Installation of the new relay is the reverse steps of the removal. Thanks, Partselect! I will be doing business with you again if the need ever arises.

I followed the instructions in the video on the PartSelect website. The only problem I ran into was that I couldn't switch the grounding tab connector from the original side of the motor to the other. I had to add more wire so that I could reach it in its new location.

Researching reasons for the freezer to not defrost, there were determined to be three potential causes: malfunctioning defrost timer, defective bi-metalic switch, or a defective defrost heater element. Research indicated that the most common source of the issue was a malfunctioning defrost timer. So, I purchased the defrost timer (which was the lowest cost option) and installed it, which took about 30 minutes. I would rate the replacement effort as "easy". Most of the time was spent collecting the proper tools and planning the repair. When placed back into service, the freezer did not appear to begin defrosting. I gave it about two days, and based upon visual evidence that the problem was NOT fixed, I removed the panels in the freeze to inspect the bi-metallic switch and the defrost heater. Using a VOM, I determined that the heating element was good; however, the bi-metallic switch appeared to be failed open, even after placing the switch in ice water while testing for continuity. So, I ordered a new bi-metallic switch which included a wiring harness. It took about 4-5 days to diagnose the problem, order, and receive the new switch. During this time, I did not have cause to inspect the freezer. Once received, I collected the needed tools and opened the freezer, only to find that the freezer was fully defrosted! So, in the final analysis, the defrost timer was the culprit! It apparently took 4-5 days for the defrost timer to cycle enough times into defrost to effect the true defrost of the freezer. Lesson learned: give the defrost timer time to do its job!

1. I removed the plastic back cover panel in the freezer. 2. Took flash photos with my phone of the motor and wire configuration. 3. Removed noisy Evaporator fan bracket from freezer. 4. Removed Fan Blade from old Motor. 5. Removed old Motor from Bracket. 6. Installed New Motor into the bracket. 7. Installed the fan blade onto motor spindle. 8. Installed the bracket onto the back wall of freezer. 9. Noticed that the tab for the ground wire was inaccessible. 10. Cursed like Linda Blair in the Exorcist for about 5 minutes. 11. Repeated steps 3 - 5... 12. Unscrewed the ground tab and placed it on the opposite side and screwed it back in. 13. Repeated steps 6 & 7.... 14. Tried to install the bracket and motor back onto the freezer but the bracket screw holes weren't lining up. When I removed the motor to flip the ground tab over, I reinstalled the motor onto the bracket upside down. 15. Tear some hair out of my head. 16. Repeated steps 4 & 5 and flipped bracket over. 17. Repeated steps 6 - 8... 18. Placed wires onto tabs. 19. Ground wire would not stay securely onto the tab. 20. Slightly opened up metal fastener of ground wire with needle nose pliers and stuck it onto the tab. 21. Still not on there super tight. I gave up wrestling with it and just prayed it will stay on there anyway. 23. Turned on freezer to check if it works. 24. Reinstalled plastic back plate. 25. Put melted food back into freezer.

I watched the repair video. My son followed my instructions. He removed the ice-maker. The back panel was frozen, so we chipped and waited for the ice to thaw. There are three wires to remove from the old fan. My son used his cell phone to take a picture of the correct wiring. He used needle nose pliers to get the motor off the bracket. I used hot water to thaw the ice, so we could get the back panel to fit properly. If we weren't waiting for the ice to melt, we could have finished in about a half-hour. I'm 86 years old, and have carpel tunnel. My son is 63. Together, we make a good team.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I unpluged fridge then took the cap off the fan moter then took the three nuts off the fan then unplugged the three wires. And visaversa, ta! Ra! Fridge works just like new.

repair went well. Ice maker still not making ice. UGH

Unplugged the refrigerator and then unloaded the freezer. removed the panel at the back of the freezer to expose the fan. Carefully unclipped the wiring harness and then removed the fan motor. Swapped the fan from the old motor to the new one (I did use a hair drier to warm the plastic fan to make it easier to remove) and reassembled the fan and panel. Simple and easy, and now the refrigerator works just like new.

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.