RT14ZKYGN00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I just slid the new one in. However the website made it easy to find and order. Plus I had my new drawer in under a week.

Just followed the video that you guys had on line . It was a very easy repair

I am a landlord and while getting apartment ready for renting, I noticed the broken shelf. I got part # etc. and the shelf came in one day. I was extremely satisfied with the prompt attention that I received.

Since the defrost timer turns the cooling functions on and off for each defrost cycle if seemed the most likely problem. That was confirmed by manually advancing the timer with a screw driver and the cooling functions would resume and run until the next defrost cycle (every 8 hours or so). The repair itself was to swap out the timer which took five minutes with a #2 phillips screw driver and a 1/4" nut driver. Once the timer was removed from the cover plate there's a simple plug-in connector to remove from the old and plug into the new timer. Two machine screws hold the timer in place behind the cover plate. Be sure switch the power off on the compressor cabinet before removing the cover plate.

Researching reasons for the freezer to not defrost, there were determined to be three potential causes: malfunctioning defrost timer, defective bi-metalic switch, or a defective defrost heater element. Research indicated that the most common source of the issue was a malfunctioning defrost timer. So, I purchased the defrost timer (which was the lowest cost option) and installed it, which took about 30 minutes. I would rate the replacement effort as "easy". Most of the time was spent collecting the proper tools and planning the repair. When placed back into service, the freezer did not appear to begin defrosting. I gave it about two days, and based upon visual evidence that the problem was NOT fixed, I removed the panels in the freeze to inspect the bi-metallic switch and the defrost heater. Using a VOM, I determined that the heating element was good; however, the bi-metallic switch appeared to be failed open, even after placing the switch in ice water while testing for continuity. So, I ordered a new bi-metallic switch which included a wiring harness. It took about 4-5 days to diagnose the problem, order, and receive the new switch. During this time, I did not have cause to inspect the freezer. Once received, I collected the needed tools and opened the freezer, only to find that the freezer was fully defrosted! So, in the final analysis, the defrost timer was the culprit! It apparently took 4-5 days for the defrost timer to cycle enough times into defrost to effect the true defrost of the freezer. Lesson learned: give the defrost timer time to do its job!

Watched your AMAZNG detailed Video first. Ordered part received in two days,WOW! Pulled refrig. from wall unscrewed two screws, loosened third screw on hose, pulled hose out cut below metal incert. Took new part from package placed in back of refrig. placed new metal incert in hose replaced hose in new fitting. Turned water back on, plugged in refrig. No leaks pushed back to wall waited for while...VOILA!! ice cubes no mess to report. THANKS FOR SUCH AN AMAZING WEB SITE and SERVICE. TOM

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.