RT14HKXAL00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

The repair was REALLY SIMPLE. I popped off the cap cover from the existing end cap, insert the door handle to the new end cap, screw on the new end cap with a Phillips screw driver, and then push the old cap cover back on. Took less than 10 minutes, if that.

I Clean the handle both top and bottom. I place the cap in place on the bottom of the handle and tap it in snug with a hammer. I then place the top of the handle back into it's original position and then I screwed the end cap in place at the bottom. EASY !!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I hand screwed the fill tube into the water tube and stuck it into the freezer hole. I screwed the fill tube to the back of the refrigerator.

Thanks so much! You saved me a bundle!!

My refrigerator is about 26 yrs old and the part I received must have been for newer models, but I was able to insert the part into a little rubber part attached to the bottom the refrigerator,

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

Since the parts arrived with no instructions and I had a vague idea of what I had to do, I went on You-tube and watched a video which was very helpful. It was a little difficult at first but once I got the hang of it things went smoothIy. It's like a brand new refrigerator now!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."