RT18DKXFN00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from New Bern, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP4387503
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Freezer compartment iced over, food thawing,
I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.
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- Customer:
- Eric from miami, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP4387503
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
water was leaking down from freezer section to bottom part of unit
First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Pottstown, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Noise coming from defrost timer
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
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- Customer:
- Don from Oregon City, OR
- Parts Used:
- W10822259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Suspected fan failure
I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it
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- Customer:
- Teresa from Moneta, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10822259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The fan wouldn't run as needed. The top of the refrigerator was really hot.
My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.
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My refrigerator ran constantly and never got cold!
On a whim I looked into what it would take to fix my garage older 2nd fridge. I was thinking I needed a new seal, but when I checked the website there was a great troubleshooter. I would have never guessed that the defrost timer was what would cause it not to ever get cold. After a fairly simple repair the freezer is colder than ever and I actually had to turn it down. The only complication was the fridge was stuck in a defrost cycle so I had to reset the timer to get the refrigerator running. Thanks so much for a super helpful site for a do-it-yourselfer like me.
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- Customer:
- Maxine from Birmingham, AL
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
would not cycle
removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again
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- Customer:
- Lori from Chuluota, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
There was no light on in refrig area
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
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- Customer:
- martin l. from JACKSONVILLE,, IL
- Parts Used:
- 4387478
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
socket melted with bulb in it.
plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.
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- Customer:
- Brad from North Mankato, MN
- Parts Used:
- 819342
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The endcap broke, door handle fell off
Found the model number of my refrigerator, sat down at my computer, went to PartSelect.com, easily found what I needed and ordered it. A couple of days later the part was at my door. With a srewdriver in hand and In less than 5 minutes the repair was complete and good as new. Total cost of repair$15.44. Of coarse I had to charge the wife a service call LOL
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- Customer:
- Lesli from Denton, TX
- Parts Used:
- 819342
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bracket on lower door handle broken.
Purchased replacement set of brackets.
Unscrewed broken and other brackets.
Replaced brackets and handles.
Done.
Unscrewed broken and other brackets.
Replaced brackets and handles.
Done.
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- Customer:
- Arthur from West Chicago, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP2163835
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken shelf support
snapped in. The best part was the ease that i identified the part due to your website.
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- Customer:
- Joyce from Kerrville, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2195916K
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Didn't know if I needed Left or Right.
The item is listed as R, meaning right hand side. If you need it for the left hand side, simple turn it over. It is designed to work on both sides of the door.
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- Customer:
- Jeff from East Schodack, NY
- Parts Used:
- 4388239
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Broken rear cabinet rollers
Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.
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- Customer:
- Gary from BILLERICA, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP2315531
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
water collecting under the vegatable drawers
I replaced the bi-metal thermostat. Very easy fix. It took a couple of days and the water stopped collecting at the bottom.I am very pleased with the web site.
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