MSX22GLC RCA Refrigerator - Instructions

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

took off the top hinge (one screw on the cover, and two bolts holding the hinge), lifted the door off the bottom hinge, saw that the riser cam had disintegrated. ordered the cam and the shim (since it looked like the shim was also going bad).
when the parts arrived, I took the top hinge off again, took the bracket holding the shim and cam off the bottom of the door (two bolts), removed the broken riser cam. Attached the shims and the cam to the bottom of the door with the bracket, replaced the door on the bottom hinge, replaced the top hinge, and the door closed correctly.

after three days, there was no condensation in the fridge, we decided that the gaskets did not need to be replaced.

qed.

I followed the directions of Steve on the installation video. He makes it easy to do the repair with his step by step description of the installation. I have repaired three different aging appliances with help of Steve and PartSelect's very helpful Customer Service.
I wish Steve a wonderful retirement and hope PartSelect can find someone as easy to follow for future videos. The videos are priceless for the repairs.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Removed the storage bins, unscrewed the old rails, screwed in the new rails and saved a Sears service call plus their mark up on the parts. Estimated savings was about $100.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

I emptied everything from door compartments.I removed the top cover of the door pivot with a phillips screwdriver. I removed the two screws that that hold the pivot bracket with a 8 mm socket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot bracket. Remove the old bottom pivot bracket with an 8mm socket and replace it with the new cam bushings.You must replace both bushings on the bottom of the door and on the bracket that mounts to the base of the body of the refrigerator. Reinstall the door and screws .The doors should be level with each other if they are installed properly.If not check the freezer door .The bushings may be worn on that door also.

Removed 2 screws that hold it on, put the new one in with the 2 screws that were removed.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

I layed several small 2x4 blocks on the floor, then raised the door up from the hinge, using the small pry bar. Then removed the the screws for the hinge. Removed the screws holding the door stop and removed the door cam. Then, I replaced the door closing cam. Replaced the hinge and screws. I Lowered the door on to the hinge and applied a little lubricant to the cam and job complete.

I was so pleased to find your website. We have just one company here in Columbia,S.C. that sells refrigerator parts. I did find out that they wanted about $60.00 for both pieces. Needless to say,I was just going to do without. I knew there had to be someone else. I found you guys on line,ordered my parts for a little over $5.00 a piece,and I put them in myself. I'm talking standard GE parts,not knockoffs. I am so pleased. Thanks for being there. I tell everyone about you.

Freezer worked great but no cooling to refrigerator section. Replaced with part ordered. Phillips head screw driver is all that is needed. Very easy to replace, it's plug and play. New part powered up neither the freezer nor the refrigerator. Went back to old part and atleast freezer still works. New part was no good from factory. The replacement part# matched the original. I attempted to contact PartsSelect but there was no response back.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

I pried the relay from compressor with small screwdriver, cut and replaced burnt wire going to relay,pushed new relay on compressor and wires unfortunately it did not fix the problem.