MZD2766GEQ Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I called PartSelect and was greeted by a real live person instead of a recording. The lady was very helpful and kind. We decided on the part that I needed, and it arrived to my home in less time than she said it should. I completed the repair with the instructions provided in just a short time. My experience with PartSelect was positive, and it reminded me of the way businesses used to be. I highly recommend them.

Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52.
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Took out all shelves and racks. Pulled out plastic cover. Removed screws holding control unit. Removed unit and accresses defrost circuit board. Replacement is in a cover. One screw would not engage so did not put it back in. Reefer was cold within hour of start and is now 1 week after. Unit would start out cold and then warm up before replacement.
Other parts were snap in furnishings that had become damaged with use.

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.

Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.

Unplugged fridge.

Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)

Then found and tested defrost heater.
Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.

In refrigerator compartment:
1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)

2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.

3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.

4) Put everything back together.

Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.

Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.

These so called factory trained techs, at least the ones that looked at my fridge don't know jack. I explained my problem, they replaced T-Stat refridge side, onother time they replaced door gasket, still not cold enough, found your website,
got all the answers. Ordered and installed,defrost
heater and T stat assy and adaptive defrost control. Remove shelves freezer side, remove evaporator cover 1/4" nutdriver ,defrost with hair
drier, unsnap elec. connector and relaced part.
The ADC, removed screws mounted on roofside
was able to lower plastic panel enough to unplug
the ADC, it just laid there, removed and replaced.
Don't know which part was bad, but I do know that
they are interconnected, at this point I din't care to defrost manually which I did for the last 7 months.
Thanks for your guidance. USMC Ross

First I removed the spill tray, and removed the two screws on the bottom of the dispenser. I was then able to remove the front of the dispenser, which revealed 3 more screws. After removing those screws, the entire assembly lifts out. I removed the old pad, put the replacement pad on, replaced all the screws and the tray, and was done! It took about 10 minutes, start to finish. I saved at least $75 on the repair by doing it myself, and the part only took 3 days to arrive. Best of all, the water and ice dispenser works like new! Thanks, PartSelect!

Chronically faulty electronic board in upper right rear of refrigerator compartment - in Maytag and Jenn-Air. Unplug unit. Remove freezer food to ice chest. Remove baskets and shelves, ice hopper and rear lower panel to expose evaporater fins. Defrost with hair dryer and allow all moisture to dry. Then in refrigerator, remove top shelf food. Carefully remove the upper assembly cover by working the plastic down and slide forward to unhook from rear slide attachments - one on each side. This is the hard part of repair.

Then remove screws from rear wall and just behind the lamps to release the whole control assembly. In the rear right corner is the bad board. Unplug and replace with new board. Reassemble the fridge and freezer. Replug unit.

This was very easy. I removed all the shelves in the freezer compartment. I removed two nutscrews to remove the back wall. Then I removed the little radiator looking part by removing two more nutscrews. I unplugged the old thermostat assembly and installed the new one exactly like I removed it, then I reversed the procedure to put it all back together. Very easy my wife could have done it. ThANKS!! to Parts Select for the help of all the blogs I read before doing the job.

Confirmed the condenser fan was the problem when I noted it was not running when the compressor was on. Removed 3 mounting screws, unpluggede the fan. Removed and replaced the mounted flange(3 screws) and remounted. Plugged in fan and it started running.

Thanks for the diagrams and quick delivery. This is the second repair on appliances I have made with your parts and probably saved $300-400 in service calls.

Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!

This was not a difficult project at all.
I removed the ice bin and then unplugged the wiring hareness.
With the old enclosure removed I first removed all of the screws holding the solenoid (look at the way it is mounted before removing all screws). I then removed the drive motor for the ice crusher/dispenser.
The yoke on the drive motor has a left hand thread.
Grip the motor shaft behind the yoke with a thin pair of channel locks or pliers and tap on the yoke in a counterclockwise direction with a small hammer to loosen and remove the yoke.
I then reattached the motor and reinstalled the yoke and then reinstalled the solenoid.
It was a bit of a trick to plug in the wiring harness, but if you use a small mirror you can do it with ease.
Be sure and align the drive motor yoke with the couple on the ice bin at a 90 degrees from the yoke on the motor. Also make sure the dispensing mechanisim on the ice bin moves freely. If not remove all ice from the bin and locate where the ice is jammed and remove it.
Trust me this will save the new enclosure you just installed.