MFI2266AEQ11 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

It took longer to empty the glass shelf above the Crisper Bins than to replace the rail. Since the part simply snaps in place, no tools were required

Pulled old gasket off door put new one in channel on door pushed gasket in channel less than 10 minutes

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

Lifted up the refrigerator to level it.

Thanks for the video showing how to replace the Humidity Slide the knowledge that the end with the flair needed to be slightly bent to SNAP into place was a big help.

Snap Out
Snap In
Yes That Easy!!

Took the new kick plate out of the box. Snapped it into position. I have had a repairman for this refrigerator before. I would rather repair an appliance than buy a new one. I'm very proud that I thought to get a replacement part myself instead of calling my friendly repairman again. Saved a few dollars.

Open the existing cover and carefully with the thumb and index fingers, pry the cover at over the left pin and remove the cover. Place the replacement onto the right pin and pry the left placing it over the left and you are done.

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

last time i tried it right away after removing from shipping box.. relaxing with with hot air gun... was not to easy... this time i allowed gaskets to relax for a week on a flat surface. in a warm room.... took less than 5 minutes per door.... no hot air needed.... VERY easy.

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Watched online video that demonstrated how to remove old, install new, and how to set correct code.

Prepped with correct tools, and general screwdriver set.
Took socks off so I limited my self collecting static electricity. Removed back panel and took a picture of the position. Once removed, I touched the refrigerator, before touching new piece and installed new panel.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!