MFF2055FRZ00 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

1. shutoff water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws
6. put on water

Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit basically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.

I ordered both tracks for replacement. It was very simple to remove the glass shelf. Turn upside down and match the replacements to what is attached to the shelf. You need a butter knife or screwdriver to release the three clips connecting the track to the shelf. Very carefully press down on the clips to disengage and pull off of the shelf for all three clips. Line up thethe new part and push in until you hear it click in. That is all there is to it. Now you might as well clean the fridge.

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Took off door to ice maker. Unscrewed 1 nut. Slid out unit. Unplugged electrical connector. Unsrewed 3 nuts from bottom of old unit & attached mounting bracket to new unit. Reconnected electric connector. Slid back in. Put screw back in. Put icemaker door back on. Turned icemaker on. Ice in 20 minutes!

A repair man came out and had to replace the ice maker

Unfortunately, I have still not managed to complete the repair, using the two parts indicated above, nor with the door bracket (part no WP2183805) that I ordered subsequently that arrived two days ago. It is not the same as, nor functionally equivalent to, the old bracket that I assumed was broken, since it was not retaining the piece in the base of the door into which the cam is inserted to mount the door. The new Cam is the correct part, but is not the solution since the old Cam is slightly worn but not damaged, and the thimble I bought does not seem to fit anywhere. The hole in the new bracket has a much too small hole to retain the Cam receptacle piece in place in the base of the door. However, this is the only lower door bracket shown in the PartSelect diagram of all the door parts used on a Whirlpool WRF560SMYM04 refrigerator. I do observe that the dark gray plastic cover on the base of the door is broken, but I don't imagine this plastic cover served to retain the Cam receptacle piece solidly in place, and this plastic cover is not offered as a replacement part either. At present I am at a total loss for how to proceed! However, the instructions for removing and replacing the door are clear and very easily carried out, and the job would be very quick and easy with the right parts. So beware if you are repairing the door on this model that the door parts diagram might not show all the parts to cover the door variations that apparently have been used!

Took off the cover, pulled out the old filter, inserted the new one and closed the door.

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

When the filter arrived, I removed it from the package.
Upon reading the instructions, I removed the old filter.
When I removed the old filter I NOTICED HOW IT CAME
OUT SO THAT I COULD HOLD THE NEW FILTER IN
THE SAME POSITION AND REPLACED IT WITH THE
NEW IN THE SAME POSITION. When I closed the cover
door, I went to the display panel and reset water filter display.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.