MZ2727EEGB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Viewed the repair video. Removed covering. Replaced limit switch, control board, and solenoid. Very easy repair!

Thought this repair would be easy, but it turned out to be a bit difficult. I started removing the gasket screws with a 1/4" nutdriver from the top to about halfway down the sides. I soaked the new gasket in hot water for about 15 minutes to make it "pliable" and get rid of the "wrinkling". It did not work. I had a heat gun for backup to smooth out the wrinkles. Only worked slightly better. Things are going smoothly until I run in to a little plastic clip by the door handle. It holds the gasket in place while you place two screws on the short run. It was very hard to remove this plastic pin. I ended up having to loosen the top screws so that I could get leverage to remove the pin and put it in the new gasket. Added a half hour to the job. Worked the rest of the gasket on the door. I continued down the sides and to the bottom. It left me with a lot of play so I loosen the sides again and started from the bottom back up to the sides. It is best to start at the bottom and work back up the sides. Having finished, I am hoping for a tight seal. It has some wrinkles that I hope will work themselves out. If not, I may have to use the heat gun again. Make sure you work slowly and have plenty of patience.

After taking advice from the other posts, I removed all contents from the door, removed the screws from the top hinge and then lifted the door off the bottom hinge pin.

While door was lying flat I unscrewed the old natural closer, replaced it with the new one. Swapped out the old lower hinge pin with the new one.

I then had someone help me lift the door back on the hinge pin and fastened the top hinge screws while they held the door in place.

It worked perfectly and was very easy.

I removed the top refrigerator side hinge screws. The door came right off. Slipped in the lower hinge pin.. Unscrewed the natural door closer and replaced. Reinstalled the door. It is unfortunate that these parts are plastic. They wear out way too soon. No, the door is not over weighted. If you have no weight in the door the plastic shelves will hinder the door closing. Putting stuff on the shelves makes them take their proper form.

At first I thought I had ordered the wrong bracket but all I had to do was push it up and pull down and it snapped right in place. If a 71 year old lady can do this any body can do it. Thank you for the fast service.

It is the model with the french door. I unplugged it, removed two screws at the bottom of the door, while holding the door from sliding down. Removed the door and put it on its side. Removed one screw that was holding the hinge, removed the hinge and replaced it with the new one. Put the door back on (do not forget to reinstall the shims).
Did the same thing on the other door. After putting the door back on readjusted the height to level the door, using height adjustment screw. Lock the door in place. It now works better then new

Removed the hinge cover on top and the 3 screws. Disconnected the electrical connection.
Lifted the door up from lower hinge and laid the down down on the floor. Carefully because there is a water line coming up through the lower hinge cup.
There is a Paraflex water connector so you can disconnect the water line and feed the line up through the cup. Having never seen one, i called, googled, etc. to find out how the connector was to come apart.
No one knew. No one!
I put the door back together and called Maytag only to find out that they do not provide technical service on any of their parts.
I was telling a friend of mine, who is an engineer,
about the dilemma. He came over and said it was a push-pull connector and he took it apart.
After that, I put the new parts in and put the door back on, Replaced the lower plastic hinge cover.
(Open the door first)
After swearing I would never buy another Maytag product, I fixed myself a drink (It was after 6:00 pm)
and relaxed.

The biggest problem I had was finding how to remove the old broken support. I did a google search and found the answer on your web page, grab it with pliers and rotate it 90 degrease then pull straight out. Installing the new one was even easier just do the reverse.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Removed refrigerated items in door, (3) screws in top hinge bracket & lifted door off lower bracket. Turned door on side & removed lower hinge brkt. & old hinge pin. Replaced with new parts & reassembled door. Luckily I had some grease to apply to parts before reassembly.

I pulled the drive ring off of the icemaker and replaced it with the new part. Saved a $150 service call plus cost of part. It cost me a little over $11.00 and a repairman probably would have charged $30.