GT1928PAGW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

First I used needle-nose pliers to remove broken hooks from the door. (One of the broken hooks slipped down inside the door and could not be retrieved. It will not create a problem is you cannot remove broken hooks.) I examined the hooks against the bracket to check the hook orientation (up or down ... they faced down). Next I searched online for the parts and discovered my door decal model number needed one or more letters, and I could not find the serial number. I only knew it was a 10 year old Maytag model RSW2400E.

All online websites (no matter what model version I used) said the basket door stop brackets were obsolete and no longer available. I finally found Partselect.com and used their easy search system to find pictures and descriptions of the parts. But I could only find parts with upward facing hooks. I was concerned but decided to take a chance and ordered them because they looked like they might fit. I had nothing to lose since the original parts are no longer available. When the new parts arrived, they looked just like the broken ones except for the hook orientation, and the packaging listed them correctly as "STOP. BASKET (LT) part #61004465" and "STOP.BASKET (RT) part #61004466". I held them up to the door (while still in the packaging) and they looked good.

INSTALLATION:
First, I inserted the left-hand bracket hooks into the door panel holes (you can start with either the left or right side) and gave it a little push and it snapped into place. The hooks and the little stop node fit perfectly and flush. YES!

Second, I took the basket, and making sure it was facing the correct direction for tilting in and out, I inserted the basket pivot post into the pivot hole on the stop bracket (making sure that I had the basket frame to the inside of the stop so that the basket would catch and be stopped when tilted out).

Third, I got the right-hand bracket and inserted it onto the other basket pivot post BEFORE I installed the right-hand bracket into the door.

Lastly, while holding the basket and the bracket together, I inserted the bracket into the door and pushed it into place.

I checked the basket operation. It tilted perfectly. There were no clearence issues. WOOHOO! Job done in less than 5 minutes, THANK YOU PARTSELECT.COM

I would only ask Partselect to adjust the online description to "Door Basket Stop - Left Hand and Right Hand" (Door Shelf Retainer Bracket is not correct.)

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Removing the broken rail was very difficult. There is a small notch that actually holds it in place. To remove the old rail, there was a hole in the metal bracket next to where the notch was. You had to apply pressure through the hole to the rail to slightly bend it to get it to release the notch to slide the old rail out. After the old rail was removed, the new rail with rack wheel installed, slid in and snapped into place very easily.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

It was easy breezy!! I felt like an empowered woman that I did it myself. I simply removed the old shelf supports with a screwdrive and inserted a screw thru the new supports and screwed them in.

Once I identified the problem, Partselect's web page made it easy to find a replacement part. The Housing Control unit was easy to remove as it had one screw in the middle, by the temprature control section, and two screws to either end. The center screw required a philips head, but the end once did not need to be removed. The unit could simply be slid out and the wiring is easy to disconnect. Then it was simply a process of inserting the components from the damaged Housing Control unit, to the new one. If you treat it like a "puzzle" you'll get the results you want with out the aggrevation that it could turn into.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The factory installed fill tube was formed and molded, hard plastic. Nothing like the replacement part or the one depicted in the install instructions.To remove it, I had to grip the exterior water tube module with a pair of Visegrip pliers, twist and pull as hard as possible, to expose a section of fill tube. I then had to cut through the tube with a hacksaw to remove the module and flange that secure it to the access hole. From the inside, I removed the ice maker and fan shield to expose the remaining section of fill tube. Using a section of copper pipe and a hammer, I was able to drive the tube through the back wall of the appliance. Fitting the new tube was easy. However, it is too short to reach the fill cup. I fashioned a section of the old tube to create an extension which I inserted in the new part. And, much to my surprise, it actually works!

Repair went very well with removal of old gasket and the new replacement. The replacement fit (OEM ?) did not fit as nice as the old one. Two screw holes at opposite corners never lined up with holes in new gasket. Some of the gasket inner folds did not fit nicely but they work with no issues.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.