MFI2568AEQ Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

1. I had to remove the cold cut drawer.
2. Remove the two screws for the sliding track and then the sliding track.
4. Remove the two crisper drawers as well as the glass and the two supports for the glass.
3. Remove the two screws for the end cap. This is accomplished by gently lifting up at the front of the part. You will find another three parts that are attached to the end cap. One is the slider that controls the tempetature, it is attached to a long plastic rod that is connected to the back side of the end cap by pressure clip points. The other end of the plastic rod is connected to a piece that is mounted to the back wall of the refridgerator. this is removed by gently pulling the entire unit forward until it comes loose from the back wall. Once the entire assembly is removed, The plastic rod must be released from teh back of the end cap. This will allow both ends to be disconnected from the slider at the front and the piece that was attached to the back wall by rotating each end to allow the removal of the components fronm the end cap. Once everything is removed, you are ready to complete the repair by reversing the removal process.

I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.

I removed and replaced the suspect Control board. The problem with the select switch not responding still existed. I then ordered a new “PS2371545 Dispenser Front Overlay – Black”. This cured all but one of the non responsive select switch problems. I notified PartSelect that I received a defective board and they promptly sent a replacement Overlay. This cured my problem. Thank you for your Help with my problem. I highly recommend your company. Bill S.

I firts pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. Un plugged it and removed a metal cover off of the back of the fridge. A clear plastic container was behind the metal pael. Removed the connectors and snapped the pld board out, Put in the new one and reinstalled the cover. Had to get the code number from theinside of the frifge and entered it into the front key pad. This step took a bit of figuring to advance the numbers using the key pad but with some trial and error...Repair done.

Through out broken plastic, replace with new one
to be replaced in a few years.

Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

Maytag Ice2-0 French Door refrigerator

Our refrigerator started slamming the icemaker door open and shut one evening. Investigation of the card behind the icemaker control panel (the LV control card) on the left-hand door revealed that the +12 volt supply that the card receives via J1 pin 3 was running at about 7 volts. As part of this investigation, I found that a wiring diagram for the fridge is in a sticky envelope behind the kickplate/grill at the bottom front of the 'fridge.

I was confused for a while because the +12 volt supply is floating, so measurements against the 'fridge frame gave very strange results. When I figured that one out, I got consistent results by measuring against J1 pin 1.

I disconnected J6 from the HV control card, located at the back of the 'fridge, and found that the +12 volt supply recovered to about 11.9 volts, so I suspected that the problem was that it was being loaded down by something. This supply gos to three places...the icemaker fan, the LV control card, and the evaporator fan (in some units)

I eventually found how to access the connector that feeds the icemaker, and disconnected it, in order to eliminate the ice fan from the supply. This made no difference, and the resistance across the supply was now 2800 ohms with J6 disconnected. I also noted that the two smoothing capacitors (C12 & C13) on the HV control card were getting hot...probably due to a high ripple current. As a load of 2800 represents a load current of only 4.3 mA, I concluded that the fault was on the HV card.

The +12 v supply is generated by an AC/DC rectifier directly off the 115 volt supply, giving a primary voltage of nearly 300 volts DC. This is chopped by a little horror of a device called a TOP247. It generates an AC waveform and drives a little transformer to generate +12 volts. This sort of circuit can be highly unstable, and it probably went into a high frequency mode, chopping at several megahertz.

Replacing the HV control card solved the problem. I have retained the card, and I intend to reverse engineer it's schematic, then try to repair it. The card cost about $150, but the actual defective component is unlikely to cost more than a few dollars, and I have a suspicion that the two electrolytic capacitors (C12 & C13) may be the cause.

Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.

This is the 2nd time I had have had to replace the center rail in 2 years....

Removed all of the bottom drawers and shelvs, then removed the end panel that contained the broken Deli cover hinge pin. Replaced with new panel, cleaned all of the existing parts and ten re-assembled.

After the repairman came and was going to charge me 500.00 to fix, I got on the net and found this site. Located the issue, part, and ordered it. The only trouble I had was locating the board in the fridge? It's right in the back behind the metal door, duh. Unplug each wire harness, pull board out and replace the board and plug harnesses back in. Took under 5 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to program it, after two tries I re-read the program instructions sent with the board and presto it works perfectly!!! A Big thanks to part select.com. ps if the fridge is cooling correctly you can take the top left cover off unplug the harness there and get a few days worth of cool out of it before it goes out completely but I would suggest the overnight ship if you are already dead, 24 bucks is a small price to pay to be up and running within 24 hours.

I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.