MFI2568AEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.

Removed the fruit & veggie drawers & the deli (pantry) drawer. Took out the 3 screws, removed the attached parts, put them on the replacement part, reattached it and put the drawers back in.

Here's the part I want to share: PartSelect had a expanded diagram showing the correct part and sufficiently detailed to figure out the repair before the part arrived. That's why I ordered from them. Secondly, I ordered the part Thursday morning--and the thing was sitting on my porch when I came back in from my evening out Saturday--2 days later!!!

Remove food off of lower shelf, remove the two produce drawers, remove large lower drawer, remove glass shelf, remove three screws holding end cap in place. Once end cap was removed the drawer track could be removed and placed on new end cap. Installation of new end cap took less than 5 minutes. Most of the time spent was removing/replacing food and cleaning the shelf/bins. PartSelect was awesome BTW!

I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!

Remove Crisper drawers from Bottom Shelf.
Remove glass from the top of Bottom Shelf.
Drop new Crisper frame center rail into slots on the top of the Bottom Shelf shelf.
Replace glass onto the top of the Bottom Shelf.
Slide drawers between left and right guides and the Crisper frame center rail.

Total repair time less than one minute.
No tools required.

The switch-out of the water filter was simple with good instructions on the box.
The part was delivered very, very quickly!

I unscrewed the old one and replaced it with the new one. The real benefit was I got the exact part I needed w/o a 30 minute drive and sales people that ignored me. I had gone to the local store the day before and come home with the wrong part because i could not get assistance and the part # I had did not match what was labled on the package. I used the same part # on the website and got exactly what was needed, less that 48 hrs after I ordered it. thanks for the prompt service. we will be a repeat customer

1. remove deli draw
2. remove glass top & end caps
3. remove screws on side of end cap
4. remove end cap
5. remove crisper control connection bars & rear ductwork
6. reinstall crisper control connection bars & rear ductwork
7. install new end cap & rear ductwork
8. install glass top & end caps
9. install deli draw & cover

1. Unplugged refrigerator

2. Removed rear silver stainless steel panel on the right rear side of the refrigerator (if you are standing in front of the unit) using a small socket set. The panel is vertically located in center at the rear of the refrigerator.

4. Removed plastic cover over the HV controller board.

5. Unplugged 4 molex connectors attached to the board and carefully pushed on the plastic release locks that hold the board in place as not to break them and removed the HV controller board.

6. Inerted the new HV controller board and plugged in the molex connectors. All molex connectors are of unique size and will only attach to the HV controller board in one location.

7. Replaced plastic cover over HV controller board and attached stainless steel panel with a small socket set.

8. Plugged in the refrigerator.

9. Identified programming code inside the refrigerator.

10. Followed included instructions to enter program code to activate refrigerator front panel.

First remove the front door panel by lifting out the catch tray at bottom. Then the 2 screws it covered. Carefully pry around edges to lift the panel away from the door. Disconnect the small wire harness from the back. There are only three, you'll get it. This will stop the lights and door malfunction. Now you can wait the 10 weeks it takes to get the HV board. Your fridge will still operate, even make ice. It just won't deliver ice or water through the door.
When you recieve the HV board, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet. Remove the metal plate on the back of the fridge. This is held on by four screws. A 1/4 in nut driver is perfect. Then remove the clear plastic door covering the HV board. Pry it off with a screwdriver. Next, disconnect all of the wire harnesses by squeezing the release tabs and just pulling apart. You'll see how the board is held to the fridge. Push to one side while pulling on the other. It comes off easily. Put the new one on re-connect the harnesses, cover with both plates. Plug back into the wall.
Go to the front. Re-connect the small harness to the display board and fasten back to the fridge. Funtime.
Re programming. Follow instructions that came with the new board. It's fairly easy. What they don't tell you is that this process is done with both top doors open.
I took the old board to a friend. (Electronic wiz) He found 2 overheated capacitors. Replaced them for about $1.50. I now have a spare. I think these capacitors overheat trying to run the ice conveyor. It sometimes gets stuck. Keep it clear, you shouldn't have this problem.
Bad design. $2500 unit 3 1/2 years old needs a $200 part? And I fixed it myself. Think what 2 service calls would cost. And why aren't the boards readily available? The manufacturer MUST know there is a need.
Good luck.

removed both crisper drawers, glass shelving, etc. removed the screws that held the part in place and replaced it with the new part. it was that easy

Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took me over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.

unscrewed to removed old and screwed in new

first I removed the pantry drawer and the 2 crisper drawers. Then I removed the glass shelf and it's supports. Using a nut driver I removed the 2 screws holding the end cap to the side of the refrigerator. Carfully snaped the end cap loose of the clip in front and pulled it straight forward, being carful not to break the rear tabs holding the climate adjuster. I then removed the old climate adjuster from my broken part (it's held on by clips) and installed it on the new end cap. I put the new end cap in snapping it onto the existing clip and added the 2 screws. Put the shelf supports and glass back on top of the drawer, slid back in the crisper drawers, installed the divider into the drawer (it just slides in) then put the drawer back in and I was done. It was an easy job and I'm sure I saved at least one hundred dollors for 20 minutes work.

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.