GS2727EED5 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Used the flat head screw driver for leveage to pop the door off. Replaced the chill door by placing at an angle and snapping it into place. Works perfectly!

Removed broken dairy door (no screws or any tools were used) and replaced with new one purchased from partselect. It took me less than a minute to do :) thanks!

No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes

I removed the broken ice bucket support enclosure using the nut driver and screw driver. The new part had to have the ice bucket motor attached. The metal piece that attaches to the motor shaft had to first be removed, which was somewhat difficult (careful! the thread is reversed). The motor and spring assebly had to be re-attached to the new ice bucket support enclosure piece.
This repair was relatively easy.

First we removed screws in the top hinge, then lifted the door up and off the bottom hinge. Replacement of the door closer and lower hinge pin took less than a couple of minutes. Then putting the door back on and screwing the top back on was nothing.

We additionally replaced the puriclean filter which simply was twisting it off and then the new one back on

Replaced filter with by-pass plug. For some reason though, ice maker does no longer functions, although there is flow out of the cold water tap. Is the design of the bypass plug such that, when installed, it impedes flow to the ice-maker?

Thanks

Removed the inner door panel held on by 30 small nuts crews. Removed the old seal. Stretched new door seal onto inner door panel. Attached inner door panel and seal to inside of refrigerator door. Using a magnetic nut driver was the answer in the tight spots and the small nut screws. Everything works fine and the beer is cold again!

Replace the refrigerator lightbulb while traveling 88 mph then turned on the flux capacitor being carful not to get stuck in a worm hole. This allows you to fix the problem before it starts to go bad.

removed one holding screw (left side center}, used pliers to hold motor shaft so I could unscrew auger drive fork (counter clockwise), then unscrew two screws for ice bucket door magnet push lever, unscrew four screws to auger motor and toss damaged ice bucket support enclosure and don't forget to screw in that one holding screw on lower left side .. then remount both components onto new thin plastic ice bucket support enclosure ... reassemble remaining ice bucket right side wall and slide in main ice bucket with auger. Not a big fix, but part & shipping was just short of $80 ..

I watched your online video on how to take out the old filter, and then to replace it with the new filter. It was as easy as on the video. Thanks!

Viewed the repair video. Removed covering. Replaced limit switch, control board, and solenoid. Very easy repair!

The repair was relatively easy. After the ice tray is removed. The plastic box holding it has 3 screws holing it. After those are removed, the tray will begin to slide out. You need to unplug the controls at the back and then the old tray can be removed. The old plastic could then be removed from the ice auger motor. The solenoid is removed from the tray with 4 screws. The only challenging part was removing the ice auger spindle. I was warned that it had reverse threads, and I may need to hit it with a hammer. However, I needed to purchase a thin set of vice grips to hold the shaft, while I turned the auger spindle. It took quite a bit of umph the get the thread connection to move. Re-installation was easy after that.

It is the model with the french door. I unplugged it, removed two screws at the bottom of the door, while holding the door from sliding down. Removed the door and put it on its side. Removed one screw that was holding the hinge, removed the hinge and replaced it with the new one. Put the door back on (do not forget to reinstall the shims).
Did the same thing on the other door. After putting the door back on readjusted the height to level the door, using height adjustment screw. Lock the door in place. It now works better then new

After taking advice from the other posts, I removed all contents from the door, removed the screws from the top hinge and then lifted the door off the bottom hinge pin.

While door was lying flat I unscrewed the old natural closer, replaced it with the new one. Swapped out the old lower hinge pin with the new one.

I then had someone help me lift the door back on the hinge pin and fastened the top hinge screws while they held the door in place.

It worked perfectly and was very easy.

I removed the top refrigerator side hinge screws. The door came right off. Slipped in the lower hinge pin.. Unscrewed the natural door closer and replaced. Reinstalled the door. It is unfortunate that these parts are plastic. They wear out way too soon. No, the door is not over weighted. If you have no weight in the door the plastic shelves will hinder the door closing. Putting stuff on the shelves makes them take their proper form.