CTN1911GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

All you need is a 1/4" nut driver or a 1/4" socket and ratchet. Remove the plastic cover to the freezer fan. remove cover to light fixture, bulb, pop out the light socket and remover 2 wires. Remove Ice maker by removing bottom screw and loosing the top 2 screws then lift up and out the ice maker enough to disconnect wiring harness. Revove 4 screws in back panel and the panel can be moved foward. Remove 2 screws holding the fan to the panel. Lay the fan on top of the cooling coil and remove ice maker electrical plug and the panel can be removed easely. Both the heating coil and thermostate switch are easly excessable.

Unplugged the unit. Removed items from the freezer. Remove 2 phillip head screws from the cover over the coils. Defrosted the unit with a blow dryer. Upon completion of defrosting, put everything back together. Removed items and top shelf in refrigerator to gain access to the controls. Removed a 1/4 inch nut head screw and loosened 2 each phillip head screws. Unplug the controls from unit and placed on kitchen counter. Removed 3 each phillip head screws holding the timer in place and unplugged the timer. Installed new timer, connected everything back together and placed everything back into the refrigerator. Plugged the unit back up and it is now cooling and defrosting properly. This whole process took approximately 45 minutes.

Received the part two days after ordering. Instructions were included. Removed the console by removing one screw and pulling it toward me. Removed the knob from the temp control and disconnected the wires (3 slide terminals). Removed the old temp control and replaced it with the new one, connecting and routing the wires and sensor tubing so they wouldn't get pinched. Replaced the knob, console and the screw. Easy job. Tested with an infra-red thermometer and adjusted the knob accordingly 3 or 4 times to get ~ 10 degrees in the freezer and ~ 40 degrees in the lower cabinet.

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip

Pulled socket out of housing, unplugged it from source, plugged in new socket and replaced the socket into housing, screwed in bulb and it worked!!

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Just removed old trim and attached new trim by hand. good results. Happy with your product and tmeliness of delivery Thanks Doug Salter

I love how easy it was to find out what part I needed by seeing the photos to verified it was the part I needed. The repair was super easy and the directions were easy to understand. I didn't even need tools.

removed old mount with allen wrench replaced with new mount

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Simply replaced part. Press fit shelf retaining bar back into place. I was just glad you had this obscure part which was easy to find on you website.

Removed keeper on left side, slid trim into keeper on right, attached left keeper to trim, re-inserted keeper onto door.

put the end caps on