CTF1923AAW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Edward from Landing, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 61005988
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Freezer condenser frosting up - 2nd ADC purchased
This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from New Braunfels, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2182124
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice stripper broken on ice maker
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
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- Customer:
- David from Cedarville, OH
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Rhinelander, WI
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Old Icemaker noisy and stopped making Ice
The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.
The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!
Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!
Thanks!!!
The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!
Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!
Thanks!!!
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Auburn, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP61004888, WP61005066
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Fan Motor making screaming noise
First I unplugged the refrigerator, then next I removed the (4) screws holding in the inside back panel section of the freezer covering the cooling coils, the fan motor is attached to the removable panel.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.
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- Customer:
- bill from escondido, CA
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
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- Customer:
- Harold from Oakton, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP61005273
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench set
Single Outlet Water Valve would'nt shut off completely.
Start: UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FROM POWER! Then -
1. Shut off water supply to ice maker.
2. Remove panel from back of refrigerator to expose single outlet water valve.
3. Disconnect water supply line from single outlet water valve.
4. Remove single outlet water valve from refrigerator (one screw).
5. Disconnect water line from the ice maker side of the single outlet water valve.
6. Reconnect the water line from the icemaker side of the old valve to the new single outlet water valve.
7. Re-attach the new single outlet water valve (with water line leading to the ice maker attached) to the refrigerator.
8. Reconnect the water supply line to the single outlet water valve.
9. Turn on the water and check for leaks.
10. Replace panel covering single outlet water valve at back of refrigerator.
Finish: PLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BACK INTO POWER.
1. Shut off water supply to ice maker.
2. Remove panel from back of refrigerator to expose single outlet water valve.
3. Disconnect water supply line from single outlet water valve.
4. Remove single outlet water valve from refrigerator (one screw).
5. Disconnect water line from the ice maker side of the single outlet water valve.
6. Reconnect the water line from the icemaker side of the old valve to the new single outlet water valve.
7. Re-attach the new single outlet water valve (with water line leading to the ice maker attached) to the refrigerator.
8. Reconnect the water supply line to the single outlet water valve.
9. Turn on the water and check for leaks.
10. Replace panel covering single outlet water valve at back of refrigerator.
Finish: PLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BACK INTO POWER.
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- Customer:
- Russell from Westerville, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP61005273
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
leaking around the valve
removed card board protection.4 screws. Unpluged refrigerator unscrewed the screw holding the valve but not all the way. disconnected the electric connection. removed the water connection after disconnecting the main water valve. replaced valve by reconnecting everything. Turned on water to check for leaks. Easy fix and recieved the part sooner then expected. Will highly recomend your fast service and correct part replacement. web site was easy to use. THANK YOU
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- Customer:
- Matthew from Aurora, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP628356
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken cup water fill on ice maker
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
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lower left shelf support was broken
I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!
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- Customer:
- Paul from Joshua Tree, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP61004888, WP61005066
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
noisy fan motor, fridge & freezer not holding temp
I took off the ice maker, disconected the wiring, took out the back of the freezer and took out the fan motor. Harder than I thought because of all the wiring back there, light, fan assembly etc. After that it was easy, took out the old motor & installed the new one. Runs much quieter now, and the fridge & freezer are much colder.
I did this for less than the price of a service call by a repair shop.
I did this for less than the price of a service call by a repair shop.
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- Customer:
- DAVID from PEABODY, MA
- Parts Used:
- 61005988
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Freezer and fresh food sections too warm, with control settings at coolest.
Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52.
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."
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- Customer:
- Harold from Oakton, VA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Refrigerator Ice Maker stopped making ice.
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
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- Customer:
- Benjamin from Daytona Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Condenser fan motor seized
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
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- Customer:
- Steven from Brigham City, UT
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
condenser fan stopped working
1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
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