CTF1923AAW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

First I unplugged the refrigerator, then next I removed the (4) screws holding in the inside back panel section of the freezer covering the cooling coils, the fan motor is attached to the removable panel.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

removed card board protection.4 screws. Unpluged refrigerator unscrewed the screw holding the valve but not all the way. disconnected the electric connection. removed the water connection after disconnecting the main water valve. replaced valve by reconnecting everything. Turned on water to check for leaks. Easy fix and recieved the part sooner then expected. Will highly recomend your fast service and correct part replacement. web site was easy to use. THANK YOU

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Start: UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FROM POWER! Then -

1. Shut off water supply to ice maker.

2. Remove panel from back of refrigerator to expose single outlet water valve.

3. Disconnect water supply line from single outlet water valve.

4. Remove single outlet water valve from refrigerator (one screw).

5. Disconnect water line from the ice maker side of the single outlet water valve.

6. Reconnect the water line from the icemaker side of the old valve to the new single outlet water valve.

7. Re-attach the new single outlet water valve (with water line leading to the ice maker attached) to the refrigerator.

8. Reconnect the water supply line to the single outlet water valve.

9. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

10. Replace panel covering single outlet water valve at back of refrigerator.

Finish: PLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BACK INTO POWER.

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

I took off the ice maker, disconected the wiring, took out the back of the freezer and took out the fan motor. Harder than I thought because of all the wiring back there, light, fan assembly etc. After that it was easy, took out the old motor & installed the new one. Runs much quieter now, and the fridge & freezer are much colder.
I did this for less than the price of a service call by a repair shop.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52.
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."

Chronically faulty electronic board in upper right rear of refrigerator compartment - in Maytag and Jenn-Air. Unplug unit. Remove freezer food to ice chest. Remove baskets and shelves, ice hopper and rear lower panel to expose evaporater fins. Defrost with hair dryer and allow all moisture to dry. Then in refrigerator, remove top shelf food. Carefully remove the upper assembly cover by working the plastic down and slide forward to unhook from rear slide attachments - one on each side. This is the hard part of repair.

Then remove screws from rear wall and just behind the lamps to release the whole control assembly. In the rear right corner is the bad board. Unplug and replace with new board. Reassemble the fridge and freezer. Replug unit.

First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.

Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.

Unplugged fridge.

Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)

Then found and tested defrost heater.
Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.

In refrigerator compartment:
1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)

2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.

3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.

4) Put everything back together.

Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.

Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.