RB19HY-2A Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

I removed the 2 crisper drawers and the glass shelf directly above the Pantry Drawer. Removed the Pantry Drawer and Pantry Drawer cover so you have easy access to the Right-Hand End Cap. On the right-hand End Cap, there are 2 screws which hold the End Cap in place, use a 1/4 inch driver to unscrew the screws from the front of the cabinet on the End Cap and half-way in of the cabinet, leave the screws in their holes in the End Cap. Lift gently to get off a small plastic pin, and move the End Cap away from the Cabinet. You don't need to completely pull the End Cap out of the cabinet, it'll move more like a door opening. Place 2 washers on each screw and gently put the End Cap back into place, being careful NOT to jostle too much so the washers don't fall off the screws. You will need to gently lift the End Cap back in to place over the plastic pin. Hand-tighten the screws back into place with the 1/4 in driver. Remount the Pantry Drawer on the sliders. When you go to install the Pantry Drawer Cover, you will need to gently push on one of the pins to get the cover back into place. Put glass and crisper drawers back into place.

Test by gently pulling on the Pantry Drawer. If properly mounted, the pins will extend fully into the Cover and will keep it secure when opening the Pantry Drawer.

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

unplug the refrigator, remove everything from
frezer compartment. remove ice maker three screws and un plug. remove rear panel 4 screws
remove motor bracket from rear panel 4 screws
unplug motor . replace motor and reasemble in
reverse order. the new motor is very quiet.

I had to find a couple screws that would match the clips and kickplate. I screwed on the clips. The kickplate snapped on perfectly.

We got a refrigerator at a yard sale for free. The door was off and much of it disassembled. When we put it together we realized the top hinge was missing. We asked the previous owner and they didn't have it. We found it with your wonderful web site which so wonderfully detailed the parts.
It was a breeze to put it together and we got a refrigerator for about $30.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

very easy

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

It was simple to just replace the shelf support. This is the thrid time I have used Parts Select for replacment parts. They always have the parts in stock, ship really quickly and it's a beeze to search their site for the parts I needed every time. Parts Select is now at the top of my Favorites list when it comes to appliance repair needs. Thanks to everyone at Parts Select!

Well the repair was not bad the package came in real fast thank you very much. Doing the work was real hard took about an hour to do and then putting it on I do not think it stayed on good still using some duck tape to hold it and the top and bottom are real fat and will not sink on in. I do not know what to do or what I did wrong. I am kind of afraid to take it off because it might rip. Some of it ripped as I was putting it on too. Do you have any ideas of what I can do or what might be my problem? Thanks.

Sincerley,


Dustin Takla

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.