RD22FN-3A Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Simply inserted the shelf. So easy to find just what we needed from the website. We really got great service and the shelf arrived in three days. Thanks so much.

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

Followedinstructions that came with kit. Kit parts were unnecessary as new valve fit in exactly as old one had been. Quick connect for flow out of valve to maker was a surprise as no threaded connection present and no nut necessary; simiply push the line into place. Reconnect water line, check for leaks and refasten back covering. Instructions with kit contained an incorrect drawing of connecting water outflowline; a one page addition verbally gave correct info, but detailed step by step instruction for this one connection was confusing. Otherwise, could not have been easier; surely a do-it-yourself project.

Unloading the freezer and removing the back panel were the most time consuming aspect of this repair. Many models only have 4 screws, but this one has 9, and being a side by side it was a tight fit to reach them. Once defrosted we tested the thermostat, found it "dead", and ordered a new one. The part came within 3 business days. Installing it took minutes, since we had not permanently screwed in the back panel again. We didn't want to reload everything until we knew things worked properly, so we didn't put everything back right away. We thought we had further problems as the freezer got really cold but the frig still didn't get down to temp. Turns out we just needed to reinstall the fan shield which we'd taken off along with other parts to access and check the vents. The fan shield must be in place to direct the cold air into the vent to the refrigerator. Duh! It was an oversight that once caught made total sense! Now all works fine on this 20 year old Maytag side by side!

unplug power! Remove the screws from lower panel on back of refrigerator. Lift wire mount out of back panel. Capacitor is mounted directly to the relay and overload switch located on the left side of the compressor. Remove the spring clip holding the capacitor in place and pull the old capacitor out. Plug in new capacitor and replace spring clip. Use vacuum to remove dust from drip pan and wipe fan blades clean. Replace wire into slot on back panel and replace screws. Remove front coil cover below freezer door. vacuum dust off coils and replace cover. Plug refrigerator in and enjoy cold beverages. Relay and overload kit were not required for this repair.

my 17 year old son actually repair it ...it took him all about 5 minutes to install the part and put that refrigerator cover back on ...very easy fix and save me a bundle of cash ...thank you very much and I will be doing more business with you

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Disconnect ac power line, disconnect power line going to the water valve. Turn water off atthe cockvalve. Disconnect water line to valve. Disconnect plastic tubing going in the valve. If plastic is old you may have to replace it to keep from leaking at the quick connect coupling. Connect water line and plastic tubling to new valve, connect power clips to new valve. Plug in the refrigertor and turn on water at the cock valve and your good to go

Thought we'd try the Water Valve before replacing the ice maker. Ordered new valve online on Saturday, it arrived on Tuesday. I installed it twice in less than 30 mins. Had a little leak the 1st time, so I uninstalled it, trimmed up the water line with a box cutter and reinstalled without issue. No leak this time. Easy Peasy. My husband said "You're good, you." :)

The part could not be installed without home made angles which were attached to unit so that it would only protrude from back of refrigerator about 2" instead of 6".

removed back sheet from inside of freezer unit. removed upper and lower coil brackets. undid clips and replaced coils. reattached wires to top , replaced back sheet.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

Having watched the Maytag technician perform this same repair a few years ago, I was sure I could do it myself! The take down was quite easy. The actual repair was a little more difficult, as there isn't much space to work in. Others have posted their procedures and mine was no different, so I won't repeat what has already been said, other than to add that when I installed the heater assembly, I dropped a length of string ( with a small nut on the end for weight) down the inside of the cabinet alongside the evaporator, and tied the wiring to the string and pulled it through to the top. That metal flange and those fins on the evaporator are very sharp! I'm not comfortable working in gloves, so if you are, I suggest you wear them... The thermostat was simple 'plug and play'! The refrigerator/freezer is working fine now. Thanks to y'all at PartSelect for your prompt shipping of the parts that I ordered.

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip