RB17KA-2AF Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the valve and cleaned all the coils at the same time. The ice maker is spewing out ice. Wife is happy again.

Repair was as shown in the video except my refrigerator had screws instead of the plastic clips as shown in the video. Just had to loosen the two upper ones and remove the one lower one. All other steps were as shown in the video.

When that one came and I went to install it, I found that my fridge was so old (almost 30 years) that the wire harness on the old icemaker could not be transferred to the new one. The old one was hand wired into the guts of the machine with wire nuts and other connectors. The new unit needs a plug in harness to match a plug connection on the ice maker. Also, the bent wire arm that senses ice bin levels was different, old unit hooked in with clips and such, new one pops into a socket in the new ice maker.

I called PartSelect back again, and the clerk spent a lot of time in the books (no parts in the online listings) and found new style connector and wire arm. Another 25 dollars and problem is solved.

Once those parts came, the actual installation was a breeze. Remove three screws, unplug the ice maker from the back wall of the fridge, plug new wire harness into new ice maker and the back wall of the frige, install new ice maker with the same three screws, pop the new style bent wire arm into place and pop the plastic cover from the old ice maker onto the front of the new one. Done! Took me ten minutes (plus two weeks of chasing parts, but only half an hour of actual time in those two weeks).

I let it make a couple of loads of ice that I disposed of (to capture any dust and crud that might have been on or in the new ice maker) and then turned it loose. We had a nice full bin of ice in the morning.

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

Replaced entire ice maker. Turn off water where it comes out of the wall. Loosen two top screws and remove one screw at bottom. Lift unit up and off top screws and swivel out to the right and disconnect power plug from freezer. Warning new unit does not come with: 1. Power Cable 2. Front plastic cover. 3. Wire bail. Install in reverse order Do NOT toss old unit until new one is installed and working. My came with the bottom mounting bracket bent so I just used the old one. When installing old power cable into new unit be sure to put small sensor into clip. It's part of the cable harness assembly.

Bought ice maker and new harness. Had to buy harness because of water damage. Took out the three screws that attached the ice maker and removed old leaky ice maker. Detached old harnees. Attaced new harness to new ice maker and put on back on with the three screws. Had ice in about 30 minutes. So easy to do!

Very easy to install the new ice maker. Removed the bottom screw holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer. Loosened the top two screws. The old ice maker came off just like that. Unplugged the power supply from the freezer and removed the whole apparatus.

I saved the wiring harness, screws, cover, and metal arm from the old ice maker. Installed these on the new one and mounted the new ice maker in the freezer. Done.

The only issue I had was that the water supply hose got kinked when I pushed the fridge back into place. Once that was resolved, the new ice maker started happily making ice.

Ordered new single outlet water valve, received in less than two days. Removed old one, and the repair pretty much feel in place. Instructions were there as a backup. ........ Just curious if the connection from the water source to the valve outlet connection could b a quick connect just the like the water line going directly to the ice maker. Gregg in PA.

I watched the video regarding the instillation of this ice maker a few times and then followed it exactly. It was incredibly easy. We had ice cubes about two hours later and no longer had a leak making icebergs!

Removed top drawer from freezer. Unplugged the ice maker. Uncrewed the bottom screw. Loosened the two top screws. Removed old ice maker. Removed all the parts that didn't come with the new ice maker and installed on new ice maker. Reinstalled the new ice maker. Started making ice with no leaks in about 3 hours.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I watched the repair video on the web site a couple of times just to get comfortable with what to expect. (i.e. pressing tabs on wiring harness to remove, placement of lift arm for removal and installation) These instructions were a big help...I had the removal, modifications and installation completed in less than 30 minutes. Ice cubes (without the extra icicles) in 1 hour...

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Had to remove the freezer door. Held on by 4 screws. Removed bottom screw on old icemaker and loosened the top 2. Slid the old icemaker up, removed the wiring harness and installed it on the new one. Took the wire out that turns the icemaker off and installed it on the new one. Hooked new icemaker on 2 screws, installed bottom screw and installed freezer door. Turned water back on and started making ice.

Removed old icemaker by removing two hex screws and one phillip's head screw.

Disconnected power connection to refrigerator.

Removed power connection harness and ice level sensor arm/levor and cover from old ice maker and installed on new ice maker.

Re-installed in refrigerator. It was simple on this model.