35538 (P1121906W L) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.

Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!

Based on internet research, determined that the problem was likely the defrost timer or the thermostat that's clipped to the cooling coil behind the freezer. Once before, a repairman had replaced the thermostat only, so that was my first repair. Still not working right, so I replaced the timer as well, and everything's working. I opened up the old timer switch and found the contacts were burned, partially arced.

If you have a similar problem, replace both parts. Only about $15 apiece

Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)

Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Very easy repair. Remove 2 nuts that keep timer cover on regrigerater. Remove 2 screws that hold timer to cover, unplug wires from timer. Install new timer.

With guidance from this web site, I was able to repair this myself very easily

First, remove the plastic cover off the top hinge by removing the single phillips head screw.

Removed the three hex-head screws holding the hinge to the body of the fridge and then lift the hinge off of the door.

Lift the door off the bottom hinge and place on a flat surface so you can easily access the bottom.

Remove the single hex-head screw from the center of the door part of the closure cam and pull it free. Install the new part.

Next, remove the bottom portion of the closure cam from the lower door hinge (still attached to the fridge) by removing the single hex-head screw. Install the new part.

If needed, lube the lower door hinge with Vaseline and carefully set the door back on. (This is the hard part if you are working alone, as it can be hard to line up the hole.)

Lube the top hinge, reinstall, and replace the plastic cover. Easy as 1, 2, 3.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

This is the easiest repair to perform, figuring out what was wrong took a little longer. I have the bottom freezer Amana refrigerator and the defrost timer is just behind the bottom front grill, removing four screws and plugging in the new timer took maybe 15 minutes. To find out what was not working correctly I removed the panel covering the coils in the freezer and it was totally frozen up, this is why it stopped making ice and wasn't keeping things cold. I defrosted the coils and checked the resistance of the heater to make sure it was working, it was fine so it was the defrost timer.

Removed the kick plate then removed four screws and unplugged the old timer. Plugged in the new part and replaced cover and kick plate.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

Took the door off, and replaced the plastic shim on the bottom that was the cause of the problem. The shim had broken into pieces and was no longer holding the door in height and alignment. I was proud of myself that I could repair it myself and avoid a $125.00 service call from a repairman. Total cost of repair including shipping and handling was just south of $12.00.

Removed the top hinge (4 screws)-lifted the door off of the lower hinge-replaced both halves of the cam kit and mounted the door and reattached the upper hinge.
Probably took about fifteen minutes total.