LRSC26930SW LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Detected noise as coming from top freezer department, and tips and part diagram clearly pointed to evaporator fan. You go in through the freezer (you have to empty top half of freezer); removing the side rails holding the ice bin, and then the 4 outer screws (only 2 each side - not the middle ones) holding the 'auger' that turns the bin. From there it gets interesting in trying to disconnect the wires. You might consider taking some pictures of the connected wires - perhaps it doesn't matter, but several of them can be hooked up in reverse. After the ice marker is out, remove light and light cover, side rails/mounts that hold hold up ice maker. This leaves a large white cover that pops out (seam at bottom of it has two tabs that you can pop out) holding the fan; and then only a few more wires to disconnect to be able to get at the fan. Mine clearly had a wobble to it confirming the source of the squeak and need to replace. Install was just reverse -- a bit tricky to get some of the wires connected given the tight spaces. Overall, not difficult - but a lot of wires and screws to connect/disconnect. I didn't take any pictures as I disassembled, and found myself having to take some extra time to figure it out as I reassembled. In the end -- a silent and functioning refrigerator Good luck!

I replaced solenoid, flapper heated door, and broken spring. Very easy instructions on "YouTube"

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

I removed the lower back panel. The difficulty and time consuming part was finding the old parts. They were inside a cover on the side of the motor. The cover was difficult to remove. It slides away from the motor. The terminals on the replacement parts were oriented differently from the original, Like a mirror image. Accordingly, I reversed the wires (side to side) and connected them to the replacement parts. The refrigerator is now working fine.

1. Remove the filter - 1 screw at top of filter and pull-out. 2. Use crescent wrench to push down at tube inlet and pull tube out. 3. Remove bottom screen from refrigerator. 4. Use crescent wrench to push down on water inlet and pull out tube. 5. Route new line on back of refrigerator. 6. Install is the reverse of removal. Thanks.

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Remove two screws on top of the fridge; removed old switch and inserted new switch. Worked like a charm. Replace casing and screws.

Really Easy

Remove push plate for water/ice maker switch, remove 2 screws and 2 wires for switch. Replace with new.

Found a LG parts video and followed each step. Simple except getting the end of rod into the solenoid arm. Took a few tries, but got it.

So easy that my 13 years old son replaced it.

purchased a new switch. The old switch just needed to be lightly pried out with a screw driver, then it was simple to unplug the old, and plug in the new. Voila! Light !

Removed rear cover from refrigerator, removed starter relay/thermal overload cover from compressor, removed starter relay and thermal overload protector from compressor, installed new relay and overload protector, replaced the compressor cover and replaced the refrigerator cover.

I screwed the old one out and replaced it with the new one. A no-brainer. The thing that was so amazing was that I ordered the filter on the intrnet and it arrived the very next day!!! I was very surprised and pleased with the very quick shipping!!!

With alot of elbow grease and a pair of pliars we managed to get the old connector off wo cuttig the tubing as the tubing was getting to short from being cut once to many times & there was no more play in the length.Original connector was a different color and shapped slightly different than the new one so was a bit concerned that I had ordered the wrong part but it went one very easily & did not leak. We even managed to remove it again just to see if it was possible wo cutting again. it came off with no trouble.I would say the replacement part was a better fit than the original simply because we could remove it easily wo having to cut the tube!