78099 (AWBCSER) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new switch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

Very simple
Removed wire rack
Removed 3 phillips head screws, requires large phillips screw driver
Removed old rail guide
Installed new rail guide and screwed back in place
Reinstalled rack

Used a screwdriver to remove covers. Used a blow dryer to defrost coil in freezer. Cut zip tie and removed old controller assembly. Inserted new controller assembly and secured with zip tie. It took 24 hours for the fridge to cool completely. Now it works fine.

I removed the old water valve, disconnected the water tube going in and tube going out to the back of the refrigerator. New water valve bracket different than the previous one which resulted in my having to modify it to fit. Not an easy task as it was preformed metal. Once hooked up, water turned on, and ice maker turned on, the sound I'm getting now is clunking and not making ice. My debate is whether or not to purchase a new ice maker or revert to the tried and true method with ice trays which work every time.

Removed old rail by unscrewing 3 screws and put new rail on

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

removed 2 screws and replaced them on new part. Very easy.

Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was larger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"

Followed instructions online

Used a small screw driver inserted into the front of the switch (facing the front) and pried until the switch was coming out. When out, I removed the connect harness and replace the switch with a new one.

1. Unplug the refrigerator (to avoid shock) 2. With one screwdriver pry open the switch on the side facing the door to a gap of about 1/8 inch 3. Insert a second screwdriver into the gap to press the plastic tab back slightly and this should release the part. 4. pull the part out and unplug it, you may have to pry back some small tabs on the sides, 5. Plug in the new switch 6. plug in the refrigerator the light should come on, if not tighten the connection 7. Insert new switch back into its slot, it should snap in place. Done!

The 2 minute or so video was not exactly matching the model that we had but the instructions were very good and important. The switch was a little difficult to get out from the side of the refrigerator.

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.

Hard time clipping it in

Removed broken shelf then installed new shelf