71016 (ATICSE0) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

The Refrigerator now runs very quite.
After watching several videos I started on mine and found that it was a bit different than any in the videos. However all but the back panel was shown and that was helpful.
The back panel was a bit difficult but a hair dryer seemed to help .
All in all it was a good choice to do it myself as it was done quicker than waiting on a repair man.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

Take out 2 screws and unplug unit before removing. Plug-in new unit and screw in 2 screws. That's it.

This couldn't have been easier. Two tiny screws in the front needed unscrewed, and then two plastic clips in the middle just had to be popped lose. Finally, you unplugged the power cord. Then, you just needed to reverse the process by plugging the new ice maker in, popping the clips in place, and screwing the two holes back in and turning the whole thing on. Voila! Perfect ice cubes again. And for only a little over $100.

Remove 2 screws and then disconnect wires to the bulb sockets. Reconnect the wires Reinstalled lamp case , tab end first then replaced the 2 screws and the Lens cover. In addition, I changed out the incandescent bulbs to a much cooler LED bulb.

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

1) Remove three drawers and items sitting on glass shelf.
2) Remove glass shelf
3) Remove entire crisper plastic unit from refrig.
4) Unscrew 6 screws holding uprights with a philips head screwdriver.
5) Remove top frame and replace with new frame.
6) Replace 6 screws and tighten them.
7) Replace entire frame in refrig and replace 3 drawers and glass shelf.
8) Done

Ordered the Part after looking at the choices shown, once I inspected the unit. I then knew by looks what would fit. THEN (important) went on Utube asking for video instructions. They had it on the computer and it was just too easy. What took the longest was the removable of the frozen food items and the drawers in the Bottom Freezer section.
Perfect product, perfect instructions, perfect job and worked perfectly!

Fridge only 18 months old too!

Handyman wanted $457.00 to do the job! HA.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

followed detailed movie from Utube video

Plug in the replacement ice maker to the socket in the frig, fit the back of the new ice maker into the slot to the rear, attach with 2 screws saved from removing old ice maker. Simple.

Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.

removed old handle

Installed new handle with hex wrench used to tighten up