78719 (AHMCSER) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new switch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock

Followed instructions online

I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Now that you have to buy a complete assembly that includes the drawer in the classy window it's very simple to replace however you buying parts that you don't need simply because G no longer makes the window. Which I find rather odd being as though that they make the whole assembly think and sell windows by themselves for less than 2/3 of what I spent through the whole assembly

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.

I have moderate to good mechanical skills, but getting the old switch out was a sizeable challenge. Since this switch suffered some damage during extraction, I was lucky to have ordered a new one to replace it. Reinstall took approximately 90 seconds. PartSelect saved me an expensive service call.

The 2 minute or so video was not exactly matching the model that we had but the instructions were very good and important. The switch was a little difficult to get out from the side of the refrigerator.

Unable to complete repair, had to send parts back
Part should have been PS11732074, but got PS11732704- wrong part
This was a substitute part and was 2" too long

Waiting for refund on this part. It cost me $14.50 to return it by UPS!!!

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.