LFD25860ST ((00)) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove water filter and water filter holder. Removed cover on back of frig. Removed clip where water line connects to back of water filter. Took half inch wrench pushed in on water line lock to release line. Repeat at other end. Reverse steps to put on new line. Easy repair.

Lower shelf frame lifted right off w/o the use of any tools. Removed both drawer cover fronts.The glass shelf which sits on top of frame over time will tend to stick to shelf frame. Running Hot water over glass dissolved stickiness and glass separated easily.Do Not try and pry apart if it seems stuck to shelf frame!. It may crack!. Cleaned all parts, and replaced both drawer front covers. Put shelf frame back in on shelf holder. Done. Approx.20 minute repair w/o any problems.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

The replacement was the exact size,easy installation.

Pretty simple fix.

1) Removed the screws from lower back plate
2) Removed the screws holding the plastic water lines in place (little plastic brackets - several of them)
3) Take a picture of how the tubing and what hose goes into what part - the 5/16" hose can go into 2 different spots - I didn't do this and I had to fix this
4) Pull out the hose "tabs" that lock the clamp into place (several)
5) Push in new hose
6) Put in clamp
7) I had to remove the filter on the inside of the fridge. Remove the filter, there is one screw that comes out, then you will have access to the hose clamps
8) Repeat for all the other hoses
9) Put the plate and brackets back into place (the picture really helps on how to orient and route the 3 different tubes
10) Test the water
11) Crack open a beer for a job well done

Super easy - take a picture! It will save you time!

I was unable to replace the shelf (no assembly required) because I was sent the incorrect part even though I gave the model #,
serial # and exact description and measurement to the agent to whom I spoke. Even worse, I was told that I was responsible for returning the part at my expense. Rather than risking getting another incorrect part I will have a replacement plexiglass made to fit my shelf.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

As per utube

Be sure to keep all the parts from the old frame because, first, you have to attach the metal stiffener/support bar from the old to the new. Care is necessary trying to fit the upper pop-up drawer doors and the clear plastic drawer tops to the frame. The hinges of the door top are plastic and could break, causing you to have order another part. The clear plastic tops, under the glass the shelf, do not fit intuitively and you have to make sure they fit in the right direction. Along one edge is a 1" square spot; that goes to the back of the frame. Then, you need to be careful snapping them into place so you don't break the supports. Once you have all the parts on in the right places, then it's just a matter of sliding everything into place in the refrigerator.

The replacement part came in a timely manner and snapped right into place.

Compress the ends. It snaps in

Remove the crisper drawer for room to work, locate the two mounting holes at the top, front of the shelf, insert the plastic hinge pin on the outside wall side. Holding the front(cover0 in one hand, reach under the cover with your other hand, grasp the second hinge pin and move it to the insert position. Using your index finger, carefully bend the bracket arm to allow the pin to be inserted.

Insert one side and squeeze other side to slip in.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.