LFC25760SW ((00)) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.

Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.

Lower shelf frame lifted right off w/o the use of any tools. Removed both drawer cover fronts.The glass shelf which sits on top of frame over time will tend to stick to shelf frame. Running Hot water over glass dissolved stickiness and glass separated easily.Do Not try and pry apart if it seems stuck to shelf frame!. It may crack!. Cleaned all parts, and replaced both drawer front covers. Put shelf frame back in on shelf holder. Done. Approx.20 minute repair w/o any problems.

The replacement was the exact size,easy installation.

I was unable to replace the shelf (no assembly required) because I was sent the incorrect part even though I gave the model #,
serial # and exact description and measurement to the agent to whom I spoke. Even worse, I was told that I was responsible for returning the part at my expense. Rather than risking getting another incorrect part I will have a replacement plexiglass made to fit my shelf.

As per utube

Be sure to keep all the parts from the old frame because, first, you have to attach the metal stiffener/support bar from the old to the new. Care is necessary trying to fit the upper pop-up drawer doors and the clear plastic drawer tops to the frame. The hinges of the door top are plastic and could break, causing you to have order another part. The clear plastic tops, under the glass the shelf, do not fit intuitively and you have to make sure they fit in the right direction. Along one edge is a 1" square spot; that goes to the back of the frame. Then, you need to be careful snapping them into place so you don't break the supports. Once you have all the parts on in the right places, then it's just a matter of sliding everything into place in the refrigerator.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.