71036 LG Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Shut off water to refrigerator. 2. Removed bottom sheet metal cover (6 screws). 3. Removed leaking water inlet valve assembly from refrigerator (1 screw). 4. Remove water inlet tube (loosen nut) and tube back to refrigerator (pull from water valve after remove cotter pin washer). 5. Detach two electrical wire harnesses. 6. Install new water inlet valve assembly to refrigerator (1 screw). 7. Replace both water tubes to water inlet assembly. 8. Re-attach both wiring harnesses. 9. Turn water to refrigerator on. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Re-attach bottom sheet cover (6 screws).

Unscered 2 screws, unplug electrical connection under the screws, slide her flap into grooves, realign screw holes , and rescrew in. Done.

Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.

Had to buy the entire door mullion because the spring broke, wasn't happy. Got the new part very quickly and it was a new replacement part number. Somewhat tentative. Took it out of the box and looked it over. No spring! Groan! Thought I got the wrong part. Flipped the bottom hinge and it snapped open, no need for a spring! Two screws, disconnect the wire harness, throw away the old, get new, connect the wire harness, connect hinges, put in two screws! Super easy. Watch the video for some pointers along the way.

Just popped the new one in. Followed the online instructions.

I followed the repair video provided by your website. Overall, very accurate. Only problem was finding the exact fit for the ice maker mounting bracket. In the end, it was my inexperience refitting the unit into the door slot.

I followed the provided video diligently, not much could have been easier. So my advice is to follow the video guys

I actually watched a YouTube video for LG refrigerators. The hardest part was taking the wire harness out. Mine was really stuck in there. But got it, put the new switch in and viola it worked. Yay!

Watched a YouTube video on how to replace the door flipper (mullion). Very easy to unscrew the plate and disconnect the electrical circuit. Then gently slide up the flipper and replace with a new one.

followed detailed movie from Utube video

Unplugged fridge, shut off water supply disconnected water supply from fridge. Remove screws that hold lower cover on back of fridge, removed screws holding valve assembly to fridge. Disconnect two electrical connections, remove black c-clip on out flow water line, lift fitting on outflow line side and pull water line off. Replace with valve assembly in reverse order

Remove 2 screws holding to door. Slide assembly up. Unplug connector. Remove old Plate Assembly. Do reverse to reinstall. Plug connector. Push in wires. Slide plate on. Fasten screws. Done

The spring broke on the flapper (mullion) on my refrigerator. I sent a chat message to PartsSelect (they answered right away) to see if they had a replacement spring but it was not available so had to order the whole mullion. They gave me the part # I would have to order. It arrived quickly. The new mullion didn’t have a visible spring but it worked the same if not better. I just had to remove 2 screws on the center plate on the existing mullion, pull the plate out enough so you will be able to slide the mullion (the wires are under the plate kind of like the ones you see on a ceiling smoke detector) but you can’t get under the plate until you release the mullion. Push up on the mullion so that the plastic tabs on the top and bottom are released. Once the mullion is released (you have to hold it), you’ll see the wires. Unhook the wire part by just pushing down on the little tab and remove it. To install the new one, just reverse the steps. Align the top and bottom plastic tabs to fit into the slots, just enough to hold it in place. If the plastic tabs are not already flipped out, you’ll have to just flip them out. The top tab does not have tension but the bottom tab has tension so just push on it with your finger to flip it out. The plate covering the electrical is a rather tight fit and you have to make sure the little tab on the inside of the plate is above and behind the tab on the inside where the wires are so it slides behind it so you can get it in position before sliding the mullion back down into place and the electrical plate is in place too. Then screw the 2 screws back in. The hardest part is holding the mullion while un-attaching the electrical and just make sure you stuff the wires in enough so you can get the plate back in position. I’m a 75 yr old woman and managed fine by myself. At first when installing the new one, I couldn’t slide the mullion down enough to get the electrical plate in position and then realized I had to have the little tab inside the electrical plate behind the tab inside the wire compartment so they didn’t hit one another when pushing the mullion back down. Then, all went fine.

This was an incredibly easy repair! 1 phillips screwdriver and two screws. Disconnect the small adapter, and you are good to go!

Replaced with new mullion