KSRA22KNSS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Open back panel bottom cover (4ea 1/4" metal screws) of appliance and located compressor. A little extra cleaning of all the dust accumulated over coils to allow better airflow. This was a lot more to do than just the relay, I had to elevate the fridge 6" or so to get access to the coils, tight area to get vacuum into. The relay is easy to reach then connected to compressor by contact Pins. Relay was secured by small wire clip, Removed wire clip and relay with Capacitor mounted to top was removed by pulling it straight out (with a little wiggling) and the two wire plug then removed. Needed a small screw driver to release pin locks on the plug. With relay removed it displayed same symptoms as noted on other repairs on the site. Lose insulator material fell out of relay and rattled. (not a good thing).. Before replacing selected the correct relay for this compressor (3 in kit) matches noted in instructions from kit and simply reversed the removal. It took a while for fridge to cool again. All works fine, maybe even a little better. Cleaning helps.

I FOLLOWED A U TUBE VIDEO. IT WAS ALMOST PERFECT FOR MY SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR.

where the wires crossed at the start relay, 20 years of vibration allowed them to short out and burn out the start relay ..since i have 2 identical fridges i switched the run capacitor to determine it was'nt bad too...ordered a start relay wednesday nite and got it friday morning...cold fridge by noon...good service and the part was exactly the same as the original....

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly.
Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!

Super-easy... First, empty refrigerator door. Then, just remove the bolt that goes through the cover over the top hinge. This exposes three more small bolts. Remove these and the top hinge assembly will lift off. Lift door off. Remove cam from door and lower hinge, slip new cams on, and reassemble. The hardest part was pulling all of the junk stuff out of the refrigerator door. Who know you could accumulate so much salad dressing?

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

I was first reluctant to start poking around, as I am limited in my handyman skills. However, not wanting to spend a lot of money, I decided to get my hands dirty. I quickly identifed the problem being the run capacitor and overload protector. I then identified the parts I needed to order using partselect.com and looked at user stories. I was confident this would work. Ordered the parts (YOU NEED TO ORDER TWO PARTS!) and began replacement. However, one of the prongs that the part connects to, broke in half. I was able to fashion a copper sheath to serve a conductor and to my amazement it worked. Had that hiccup not occurred, this would have been a mighty easy fix. Everything about this site helped and defintely gave me a "Tim the Toolman Taylor" boost of confidence.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.