KBLS22KCMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I opened the large cardboard container the way it appeared to have been sealed. I knew i was dealing with glass. It was packed soooo great! After opening I Saw that the glass was tucked behind a separate piece of cardboard. Glad I had laid the package on the table to open. This made it easy to lift up out of the package. I went over the glass with a slightly damp cloth and dried. Peeled off the little stickers and laid it on top of the shelf supports and middle divider. It rested down right on top and eased into place. Wah-la!! All done! Thanks! Easiest repair I have ever had, and I am almost 70 with a lot of history in repairs!!

I took all items off the glass shelf. Removed the two crisper drawers. Removed the glass shelf. Installed the center rail. Replaced the two crisper drawers, the glass shelf and all items. Job done in less that 1 min. Thank you for great customer service and quick delivery.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Hook just clips right into the channel in seconds.

Lift off glass shelf and insert tabs of rail on each end , replace shelf.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I removed the crisper pans, installed the new rail and then installed the new bins. Very easily done--I was finished in 10 minutes

The glass shelf sits on top of the crisper housing. That was the problem since when I turned the housing over to clean, the glass fell off. I just had to set the new part on to the housing and it was fixed.
I do want to comment on how easy it was to find the part on your website, how reasonable the price and the quick delivery. Thanks!

I checked the element and the thermostat and determined the problem to be the control board. I simply followed the instruction in the video. Everything went well until the last step, the video said to push the freezer down button. When this did not work I refered to the written instructions which told me to push the up button. That did it. Job complete. The unit is working as it should.

Motor evaporate. Replacement. Just like the video and it worked out perfect. Refrigerator works great now.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

with the freezer working I knew the compressor was working. I confirmed that the actuator door in the refrigerator was working but no air was blowing out. The hardest part was removing all the freezer drawer components and the ice maker so I could remove the panel in the back covering the evaporator motor. A quick resistance check of the motor confirmed no continuity in the motor. Take your time so that you dont break any of the snap in pieces. The motor I received did not look like the one I was replacing, but in fit in place and bolted right in. They provided an adapter wire to connect the wiring. All in all it was a fairly easy job. The video I followed was very helpful.