KBSD608EBS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Built-in filter was corroded due to age. New filter corrected problem.

Removed screws, unplugged connectors to the two faulty circuit boards, reconnected both cables to new/replacement circuit boards, reinstalled screws. Extrremely simple! Worked perfectly! Saved about $150 in less than 30 minutes. Great, fast service by PartsSelect.

Local service person missed the diagnosis and advised $10,000 new refrigerator. I looked and saw that the switch was deformed and had burn marks. Searched for switch online. Found site Ordered. Part arrived next day. 5 minute job to replace. No tools needed. Refrigerator works great. Thank you t!

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Isolate the broken LED light fixture by pressing the door switch and releasing it; broken light will remain off and not flicker. Unplug refrigerator and apply painter's tape around the light fixture to protect surface finish from being marred or scratched. Use the putty knife to remove the LED light and disconnect the wiring from connector. Reconnect wire of new part and install by pressing light fixture in place. Remove tape and plug refrigerator back in.

Easy!!!!! Just cut the power to the unit and unscrew the boards. One is to the right of the ice maker and one is to the left. Snap the connecter on the old board so it will disconnect and replace it. It works perfect now. I had a service man come out and he quoted me $400.00. He told me I needed a whole new ice maker too. Not true. I simply email you guys and had the part in 3 days. It only cost me $80.00. I will use your site for every part I need. Thanks

I called a local appliance repair / sales store and he told me what to look for. There is an electronic "eye" on the "On / Off" panel in the freezer, and there is an electronic eye that sends a beam across to the other side where there is a receiver. If there is no beam, or the beam is obstructed --- for example when the freezer door is open the little "door" on the opposite side of the On / Off switch opens, interrupting the beam --- the icemaker will not work. In my case it was easy... there was no beam being sent across, so I KNEW it was bad.

Ordered the part, took out 6 screws total to remove the sender and receiver, removed the circuit boards with 3 more screws, replaced with new boards, and reinstalled.

Trust me - a 10 year old could do this. Don't be afraid because it involves "circuit boards" - it's literally one or two screws, replace the boards, screw them back in, and plug the two sides back in. ANYONE can do it... anyone!!!

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Unpluged the refrigerator, removed the burnt out switch by unpluging it, plugged the new one in re installed the switch into cover. Plugged in refrigerator replaced cover. Done. Easy as one two three

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Unplugged power from unit. Removed tray bracket, removed 2 screws from drive motor cover, removed 4 screws from motor assembly, disconnected power from assembly, Replaced rubber seal at the lower end of the recently installed new shaft. Re-connected the power plug, placed the new dispenser assembly into position making sure the shaft was properly seated in the motor. Replace the four screws, plugged in main power and tested the dispenser prior to replacing the ice container. Tightened the screws, replace the cover and the tray bracket.

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice