KBSD618ESS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Built-in filter was corroded due to age. New filter corrected problem.

I called a local appliance repair / sales store and he told me what to look for. There is an electronic "eye" on the "On / Off" panel in the freezer, and there is an electronic eye that sends a beam across to the other side where there is a receiver. If there is no beam, or the beam is obstructed --- for example when the freezer door is open the little "door" on the opposite side of the On / Off switch opens, interrupting the beam --- the icemaker will not work. In my case it was easy... there was no beam being sent across, so I KNEW it was bad.

Ordered the part, took out 6 screws total to remove the sender and receiver, removed the circuit boards with 3 more screws, replaced with new boards, and reinstalled.

Trust me - a 10 year old could do this. Don't be afraid because it involves "circuit boards" - it's literally one or two screws, replace the boards, screw them back in, and plug the two sides back in. ANYONE can do it... anyone!!!

Easy!!!!! Just cut the power to the unit and unscrew the boards. One is to the right of the ice maker and one is to the left. Snap the connecter on the old board so it will disconnect and replace it. It works perfect now. I had a service man come out and he quoted me $400.00. He told me I needed a whole new ice maker too. Not true. I simply email you guys and had the part in 3 days. It only cost me $80.00. I will use your site for every part I need. Thanks

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Local service person missed the diagnosis and advised $10,000 new refrigerator. I looked and saw that the switch was deformed and had burn marks. Searched for switch online. Found site Ordered. Part arrived next day. 5 minute job to replace. No tools needed. Refrigerator works great. Thank you t!

Unpluged the refrigerator, removed the burnt out switch by unpluging it, plugged the new one in re installed the switch into cover. Plugged in refrigerator replaced cover. Done. Easy as one two three

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.