KBRS22KFBL00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

Remove old parts, install old bar to new caps and snap in place. So easy even a caveman can do it!

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

I removed the panel in the back of the freezer and found the evaporator to be a complete block of ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. Following advice from the Partselect web site, I measured the resistance through the defrost heater. It was about 30 ohms, so I decided that it was OK. Next, I advanced the defrost timer manually with the compressor on until it turned off. The defrost heater did not operate. I concluded that the problem was the defrost thermostat. After installing it, the freezer worked properly.

I removes all food and drink items from the refrigerator and freezer doors. I then removed all of the screws holding the inner panel of the refrigerator door to the door itself. The old gasket could then be removed. I placed the new door gasket in place around the inner panel and reinstalled the inner panel with new gasket onto the refrigerator door. I then removed the inner panel from the freezer door and then removed the old gasket. I placed the new door gasket in place around the inner panel and reinstalled the inner panel with new gasket onto the freezer door. I used a portable drill with a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove and reinstall the many screws that held the inner panel and gasket on the doors.

Soaked the gaskets in bathtub to make them more pliable. They laid flatter and were easier towork with,

It turned out the water valve was not the problem but I think it works a bit better with the new one. I had replaced the main part of the icemaker inside the freezer which had lost the smooth finish in the ice tray. It worked for awhile but quit.
What had happened was the large approx. 1/2 inch tube going from the back of the refrigerator to the icemaker tray became plugged with ice. It was difficult to get it out due to the ice but once I did it was easy to melt it and put it back together. All's well that ends well and avoid the cost of a repair call. Working great now.

Because the refrigerator worked (38-40 degrees) and the freezer only got down to 29 degrees, I thought that the freezer thermostat had gone bad. Changed it out but results are the same.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Removed screws on back cover plate in Freezer, disconnected fan assembly, removed fan assembly, removed propeller from fan assembly, and transferred it to new motor, installed new assembly, reconnected electrical connections, screwed on back cover plate - Viola!

First it required defrosting since the cooling area was solid ice. Note that I replaced the defrost timer first and no difference. I pulled the icemaker and racks out, then removed the door by removing the 4 screws with 1/4" nut driver. One of the sliding drawer tracks must be removed in order to get the back panel in/ out easily. The 4 screws were easily removed with my nutdriver. The screws are not all the same so keep track! Next remove the 4 screws that hold in the vent assembly where the cold air shoots out (center). Remove all of the remaining screws in the panel in the rear of the freezer compartment and pull it out. The themostat is on the right side with 2 wires and a clip that holds it on to the coolant pipe. Pull it off of the pipe and locate the connector - 5-6" from the thermostat. Pull connector apart without damaging the wires inside. Install new part the same way the old one came out and reassemble in reverse order.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws from the access panel. Replaced the bad motor with the new motor. Works great . Probably saved myself $125.00 in a repair service call.

The web site and customer service from Partselect.com was outstanding. I had the part in two days. Their tracking system is wonderful.
First class company.......It's plain to see they put the customer first.

There was water on floor at front and ice cubes in freezer were wet.
Freezer cooling cycle had become warmer.
Received part. disassembled the temperature control; i.e., pulled off the control knob; removed 3 screws holding unit to top of freezer; pulled two wires from their connectors to the old "control unit"; pushed them onto the connections of the new unit; reassembled the control to the top of the freezer with the three screws and pushed on the control knob.

bybob