KBSD502ESS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair was easy and producing ice within five hours.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Replaced the ice bin button by removing the ice bin, turning it upside down and dumping the ice, and replacing the pastic part that broke with the right size socket. It was very easy. Part was easy to find at PartSelect. Would have just left it broken if I could not find the part as a repair person would have charged $100 just to come to the house and I would have had to take off work. With PartSelect, it cost me $15 and I fixed it myself in under 10 minutes. Way to go PartSelect!!

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

We took out the old filter and put in the new one. Ran out a few gallons of water then it was ready to use.

I unplugged the refrigerator
Opened the freezer door
Opened the ice maker door so that I could easily get to the emitter and receiver
I used a phillips head screw driver to remove 3 screws from the emitter plate and 3 screws from the receiver plate
I unplugged the faulty circuit boards--this took some tugging
I firmly plugged in the new circuit boards and replaced the screws
I waited about 30 minutes and the ice maker began making ice again

Ordered the parts from Parts Select and had them within two days (lightning fast shipment--and with just standard shipping). Disconnected the power to refrigerator, removed three screws from each cover panel, pulled the panels loose from the freezer wall, disconnected the wiring harness on each, removed the screws holding the two boards, replaced the boards with the new ones, attached boards to cover panel with screw, reconnected wiring harnesses, replaced the three screws on each side, restored power, and made ice! Whole job took about 15 minutes.

After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.

Our unit is a built-in unit so first had to remove the decorative cover panel to expose the internal on/off switch. Turned off the circuit breaker. Disconnected the wires (simple pull-off/push-on). Removed the old switch which meant clipping the plastic tabs holding the switch in position. Inserted the new switch by simply pushing it through the opening being sure to have it in the same alignment ('off' to the back of the unit.) Reconnected the wires making sure to have a white ground wires on the left and the black 'hot' wires on the right. Turned the circuit breaker back on. Turned the switch on. Now it runs.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Unscrew the three phillips screws holding the flipper and electric eye unit, pull it out a bit to unplug the connector. Take the assembly over to a flat surface, and use pliers and or crew driver to pry/pull off the press-on retainer on the hinge pin. Pull out hinge pin, remove the broken flipper. Put new flipper in place making sure spring is behind the flipper (holding it open). Reinsert hinge pin, and then reuse the press-on retainer to hold in in place. Then take the repaired assembly back to the freezer, re-plug the plug, and then reinstall the unit using the 3 phillips screws. Easy Peasy.

Repairing a refrigerator is inimidating to say the least. Our ice maker has broke twice in the two years that we have owned it. The first time we had a service repair faciliting come out and they replaced it for about $200. The second time I had no idea what the problem was until I came to this repair forum. I soon realized that the electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Received the part two days after ordering and it took all of about 5 minutes to unscrew the old boards, pop them out, and put in the new ones.

Love your website and the money that you saved me!!! Thanks a million!

Light was blinking on the Electronic Control Boards. Ordered replacement (emitter and receiver)and installed, and now it's working.
Some note: 1 year ago, the board started to blinks (meaning it's bad) but it was still making ice. This gave me a false error when it really failed, took the risk and ordered the replacement parts and all is well now.

One more thing to pay attention to , and it may only be on my model of refrigerator, but the wires harness that connect to the receiver board (big board) have large and stiff wire. With limited space where the board and the wire are seat at, it put lots of pressure on the pressure on the board's connector. This pressure, over time, will cause the right angle connector's solders to crack and may be a contributor to the failure. If you're installing the new board, try to re-inforce the connector with some rubber heat glue and also relieve pressure from the connector's end, which I hope will prolong your board.