KRSF505EBL00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Got resistance values from partselect. Coil was not in range. I remove rear cardboard cover,shut off water. Valve located on right side rear. Hoses are quick release. Unplug wire harnesses.

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Remove drawer and install new drawer.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

When the snack pan is packaged there are two plastic bags located on the side rails of the pan they are filled with a thermoset foam to trap the pan in the shipping container. If not enough foam is placed in the bags or the box is placed on the ground with the rear side down in a forceful way the pan can come loose from the foam packaging. The shipping container had no damage on the outside. There was no marking on the box this side up or fragil. One of the rear ears of the snack pan had broken off about 1" from the end.

After pulling the fridge out and removing the dust cover over the lower portion in back of the fridge, I could see water dripping from the inlet valve between the water main to the icemaker and the water dispenser in the door.
1. Unplug the fridge
2. Place a towel under the fridge to absorb any over flow
3. Turn off the water supply to the fridge - this is usually at a tap valve on the cold water line. trace the line from the back of the fridge to find the connection point. In the unlikely event there is not valve at the tap valve or if it is inaccessible, turn off the main water supply. If you have to turn off the main supply turn on a faucet somewhere in the house to bleed the pressure from the line.
4. If the valve is tied to the frame or line , undo the tie or cut the zip tie (in my case)
5. Unplug each electric connector from the old valve to the new one.
6. The water connections are all quick connect so release the intake line by pressing down on the white ring and removing the tube. Press the tube into the new valve.
7. Repeat with each line going to the refrigerator making sure to plug each tube into the same outlet you pulled it from
8. In each case to minimize water coming out of the tube, hold your finger over the end while transferring to the new valve.
9. Verify that all tubing ends are FULLY pressed to the valve
10. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. if some are seen turn water back off and repeat steps 6 thru 9.
11. Plug fridge in
12. Run water from the door faucet to bleed any air out
13. Clean up any spillage
14. Replace dust cover (if present) and replace refrigerator in place
Piece of cake

Carefully followed the unit’s manual instructions

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place