KSC24C8EYY04 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

pulled the top shelf and poped open the door and replaced the filter

Found the filter door in toe kick under freezer door. Opening the door ejected the old filter. Direction indicator arrows were found on inside of filter door, rotation of filter to match arrows important. Pushed new filter in to stop, closing door completed insertion of new filter.

ONCE WE KNEW THE COMPRESSOR WAS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING , USED A MULTI METER TO VERIFY 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WAS PRESENT, FOUND 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WITH NO VOLTAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. OHMS OUT THE COMPRESSOR, FOUND IT WAS WITH IN SPECS. REPLACED THE INVERTER AND ALL IS WELL ONCE AGAIN.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Unfortunately the replacement part did not work. The directions required that the older Gasket had to be removed before the new could be inserted. The original gasket was inserted into a groove on the door and also "glued" in some way to the door.

When an area on the side of the door was carefully pulled out it revealed that the new one was insufficient to replace the original.. It was substantially thinner and did not have the design that extended and went into the groove on the door. It needed to go in the slot of the same size and width. There was no such part and no way the new gasket would/could attach to the door.. There was no way to attach this new part. This meant that it wouldn't fit and successfully close the door.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

ordered new filter, removed old filter from fridge, and installed new one

Took the old ones out and replaced with the new ones.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

After removing shelving and evaporator coil cover, suspended water bladder and evaporator coil with bungy cords. Removed and repaired drain pan, closing pitted holes and applying a coat of paint. Pushed evaporator fan WITH strofoam replacement to better insulate coil. Ensure that fan is facing up so that evap coil cold air is pushed up to top shelf area (mine came facing down). I used two digital thermometers, placing one on the top shelf and the other one the middle shelf to measure temp. Both read 37 degrees, which is fine.

Never did this particular repair before. Fairly easy.