7KSC24C8EY00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!

In the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet is a small drain that should allow any extra water to drip down to the bottom pan of the refrigerator where the compressor is. The compressor is warm and will evaporate the water quickly. If that drain gets clogged then the water will eventually spill out onto the floor. These parts are not necessary to fix the leaking water but when you open the cabinet to check around, you’ll find a lot of mold and fungus has grown on the Styrofoam because of the wet conditions. So I replaced the Styrofoam holders that secure the heat exchanger. This is easily done by removing the white plastic cover in the back of the refrigerator, and then wiggling out the two Styrofoam holders on the left and right. It’s a little easier if you have the new parts before you remove the old parts because they have to fit in just right, but it’s easily figured out. To clear the drain, it’s a little difficult because the tube makes a nearly right angle just below the drain hole. I was not able to clear the clog by pushing anything down the hole because it just hit the right angle turn. I found that I had to pull the refrigerator out, identify the tube by reaching in the back of the refrigerator toward the bottom, pull the tube straight, and then jam wire up through the tube to clear the clog. You can also buy a tube replacement but replacing the tube requires getting into the back of the refrigerator also, so both are about the same level of work.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Removed old filter then insert new filter and pushed door closed

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

1) Turn off the power to the refrigerator 2) Remove the top shelf and ice maker door 3)Remove three hex screws holding the ice maker in place, 4) Unplug the electrical cables and remove the ice maker 5) Remove the plastic cover to the motor module 6) Remove three screws from the motor module and seperate from the housing 7) Remove two mounting screws for the motor module 8) Seperate the motor module from the ice tray 9) Remove and replace the plastic ice stripper and rake10) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be patient after re-installing the ice maker. It might take an hour or two before its cold enough to kick back on and make ice.

Removed 4 bottom screws. Removed module screws. Replaced module and motor with new parts (came assembled). Replaced module screws and installed the ice maker with the 4 bottom screws.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

i first removed the ice maker and took the motor assembley off. Right away i saw the problem. The wheel which drives the arm broke.
Once i get the new motor modl i just replaced it (it just pops into place with 1 or 2 screws).
put ice maker back in freezer and wola. Starting cranking out ice within 15 minutes.

Tough part was diagnosing the problem: bad water inlet solenoid, frozen inlet line, bad ice maker motor, or door opening sensor? Went to a parts shop & discussed the problem with the serviceman. He said you just need to sequentially replace each part. No way say I, that could cost $300 with a no-part return option.

I decided to replace the motor...Eureka!! It worked.
The underside of the ice maker cartridge has a plastic snap clip on either side of the cartridge. You need push each up, pull the left side of the cartridge out part way & disconnect the electrical connector on the right side(left..you facing the refrig.) With the cartridge out simply remove the 5 screws from the motor plate of the left side & replace with the new one.
Very simple. Slide the cartridge back in the frig. until the 2 snap clips click. Voila...you done! Cost $86..not $300. Apparently the motor is too weak to do the job & burns out quickly. Manufacturer should correct this defect.