KSUS27QDAL01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Very easy. Take panel off and replace motor.. All wires matched fine. Easiest applance repair I've done..

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

I removed the screw holding the nozzle in place, and removed the other end of the line under the refrigerator to give me some slack. Then I clipped the nozzle off of the black line and taped the new line to the end I cut off with electrical tape. Then I just snaked it down through the hole with me pulling from the bottom and my wife pushing from the top and reattached both ends. Make sure you don't use too much tape becaue it won't fit throught the hole at the bottom. I taped them together at an angle so not to make tape too thick. Also, you can snake it back from the bottom if the tape breaks and the old line comes out of the fridge.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

As cookbook authors and publishers, my husband and I depend on our appliances. When our icemaker would no longer work, it was imperative that we repair it as quickly and ecomonically as possible. We had used PartSelect.com earlier to order a part to repair our Jenn-Air stove top and had great results. So, rather than paying a repairman four times or more the cost of the part, we ordered the part and my husband installed it. It took less than 30 minutes to remove the broken auger and install the new one. THANKS PartSelect.com -- we'll use you for all appliance parts needs.

Technician at ASK suggested replacing ice maker. Ordered new ice maker(prompt delevery)then noticed it came without wire arm and white platic "flag". Ordered arm and "flag", replaced all old with new and seems to be doing well. Perhaps all I needed was the plastic "flag" on the limit arm wire. Will never know. The new icemaker wiring had short wires and a connector. Old ice maker had no connector so the short wires were removed and the old wires plugged into the ice maker. Mirror was required in order to see the side wall mounting screws. Very narrow work area, tiny freezer side.

Just took out old crisper cover frame and replaced with new one. No tools required.

I removed the screws that attached the drum housing to the bin. I detached the auger & removed the broken drum assembly, turning the auger to the right, opposite what I thought it should be. I slipped the end of the auger into the new bin coupler & put it in place at the rear of the bin. Next I slipped the auger drum into place & tightened it to the left with a socket wrench. I screwed the drum housing to the bin, put the bin back into the freezer & I now have ice through the door again. Easy repair even for me, a 60+ woman.

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.