KTLA22KRSS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Installation went smooth - only three hex-head screws (one below unit and two above. After removing 3 screws, unit comes loose in your hand but is still connected by a plug leading 4 wires to a connector visible through a slot in back panel of freezer compartment. New unit goes in easily (making sure spout from pump that protrudes from back wall fits through opening on icemaker) but there's not a generous amout of wiring harness and the 'female' of the electrical connection is recessed and loose inside a cutout in the rear panel so you can't get a good grip on it nor can you feel if it plugs securely. I plugged new unit into connector and then secured it with the 3 screws, waited the 12 hours per instructions, but no ice. Removed unit and guessed that the plug had not seated fully (not plugged in.) I took a short piece of a wooden paint stirrer and put it on back edge of plug and tapped it into place so it seated fully. Immediately, the pump cycled and water came from the filler spout, so I surmised that it was now properly plugged in - it began making ice in a couple of hours and has operated perfectly ever since. Lesson learned is to make sure you get the electrical connector fully in place - mine did not 'snap' or 'click' into place and I wrongly assumed it was plugged in correctly.

Whirlpool refridgerator, parts were not exactly the same,but did fit. The electrical hook plug was perfect. Old ice maker had wear marks in channels. Installed new ice maker. Pump still didn't operate after letting ice box get down to normal temp. Replaced pump. Had to use hose permanentely attached to new pump. Removed old hose and clamped new hose at top and outside refrigerator with existing clamp. Let the freezer get back down to normal temp. Ice maker operated perfectly.

I completed the ice maker installation but the bracket the automatic water valve was attached to in no way would fit my Whirlpool fridge. The one showed in instructions sent with the ice maker was different than the one Partselect sent me. I had to grind both sides of the bracket off and just hot glued it to the spot where it was supposed to go. I can see how this could be a real issue for some.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

Disconnected the power first. Installed the new thermostat. Re-routed the power wire directly to the "common" #1 pin, on the defrost timer which will allow the timer to run continuously and changed the defrost cycle design from "cumulative" run time to standard "on demand" run time. Re-routed the "compressor" #4 pin wiring through the thermostat so the thermostat is only responsible for cycling the condensing unit on demand thereby removing the cold control from the additional load of handling the defrost heater load as well as the compressor load. I would only advise this procedure for someone who is very knowledgeable in electrical wiring and appliance repair. PS: the reason for this is? 1.By allowing the defrost timer to "de-ice" the evaporator coil on an 8 hour (demand) cycle, the ice buildup on the evaporator is less, allowing more air to circulate through the evaporator coil and increasing the efficiency of the appliance. 2. As the thermostat cost 4 times as much as the replacement defrost timer, it makes good financial sense to take the additional "defrost" load off the thermostat (who's only function should be to control the condensing unit) 3. The frig stays colder & doesn't run as long...FYI...I'm a state licensed refrigeration contractor...Thanks.

I'm a 65 year old widow on a limited SS income, so I needed to get my refrigerator fixed as cheaply as possible. Partselect's troubleshooting guides took me right to the problem. I ordered the part on a Friday and it arrived the next Tuesday. It probably took me a little longer than it would a repairman, but I did it myself with just a screwdriver and a nut driver and it only cost me $45 instead of the $200 plus it costs my daughter to have someone else replace hers two years ago. Always remember to unplug amy electrical device before removing the covers or attempting any repair. All I had to do was remove the lower back cover on the refrigerator and, using the partselect diagram, locate the casing that covered the start relay and the overload switch on the left side of the compressor. I popped the casing off with the screwdriver, pulled the relay off (it's sits on two prongs), and remove the red terminal wire from the relay. Installation of the new relay is the reverse steps of the removal. Thanks, Partselect! I will be doing business with you again if the need ever arises.

We had a refrigerator that had no ice maker at all, but it had the wiring behind the freezer panel and the wiring for the solenoid valve at the bottom of the refrigerator. The installation went easy for me, but I do not think the average homeowner could handle it. There are always little variations from model to model so some of the diagrams were not quite the same as my unit. But all the necessary parts and hardware were there and the install went fine. its crabnking out perfect ice like crazy.

I watched the repair video. My son followed my instructions. He removed the ice-maker. The back panel was frozen, so we chipped and waited for the ice to thaw. There are three wires to remove from the old fan. My son used his cell phone to take a picture of the correct wiring. He used needle nose pliers to get the motor off the bracket. I used hot water to thaw the ice, so we could get the back panel to fit properly. If we weren't waiting for the ice to melt, we could have finished in about a half-hour. I'm 86 years old, and have carpel tunnel. My son is 63. Together, we make a good team.

I followed the instructions in the video on the PartSelect website. The only problem I ran into was that I couldn't switch the grounding tab connector from the original side of the motor to the other. I had to add more wire so that I could reach it in its new location.

1. I removed the plastic back cover panel in the freezer. 2. Took flash photos with my phone of the motor and wire configuration. 3. Removed noisy Evaporator fan bracket from freezer. 4. Removed Fan Blade from old Motor. 5. Removed old Motor from Bracket. 6. Installed New Motor into the bracket. 7. Installed the fan blade onto motor spindle. 8. Installed the bracket onto the back wall of freezer. 9. Noticed that the tab for the ground wire was inaccessible. 10. Cursed like Linda Blair in the Exorcist for about 5 minutes. 11. Repeated steps 3 - 5... 12. Unscrewed the ground tab and placed it on the opposite side and screwed it back in. 13. Repeated steps 6 & 7.... 14. Tried to install the bracket and motor back onto the freezer but the bracket screw holes weren't lining up. When I removed the motor to flip the ground tab over, I reinstalled the motor onto the bracket upside down. 15. Tear some hair out of my head. 16. Repeated steps 4 & 5 and flipped bracket over. 17. Repeated steps 6 - 8... 18. Placed wires onto tabs. 19. Ground wire would not stay securely onto the tab. 20. Slightly opened up metal fastener of ground wire with needle nose pliers and stuck it onto the tab. 21. Still not on there super tight. I gave up wrestling with it and just prayed it will stay on there anyway. 23. Turned on freezer to check if it works. 24. Reinstalled plastic back plate. 25. Put melted food back into freezer.

After ordering the ice-maker, but before it had arrived, I installed a valve in the pex water line in the room right below the fridge. I had to rent a pex clamp kit from Home Depot. It cost $8 for 4 hours and came with the crimpers and band cutters. I then ran a poly line to an in-line filter which I mounted to an exposed stud and fished the line up the wall and out a small hole I drilled behind the fridge. When the ice-maker came, it took less than 30 minutes to install and start my first batch of ice. With the in-line filter, the ice forms with practically no sediment flakes. Part Select was the only place I could find a replacement ice-maker. In addition to the parts in the ice-maker kit, I had to buy 12 feet of poly water line, a ball-valve, the in-line filter and a compression fitting. A total of $20 at my plumbing contractor store.

The icemaker came with very easy to understand instructions the installation took less than 45 min. that included installing the selinoid valve and waterline I had a nearby waterpipe, the acual icemaker took about 5 min. to install it in the freezer.

Rather than pay a repairman an assessment fee, then the cost of the repair to the existing icemaker, I decided to replace the icemaker for a lot less. The Add On Icemaker kit came with installation instructions. The kit included the ice maker, as well as the hose and water feed control on the back. Originally, I was nervous about attempting to replace the icemaker. I watched a video on YouTube about replacing an icemaker and saw how easy it could be. Following the enclosed directions, and Wow!, it was extremely easy to remove and add the new icemaker. Don't pay to have someone else do it! This is a no-brainer.

I cut the plugs off and bought male and female wire conectors and crimped them on the wires and pluged them together.

Remove rear panel with 1/4 nut driver. Pop plastic cover on compressor. Pry off relay and two wires and reinstall. Nice and easy and back to full function :)