KTRS25KGWH3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

be sure the power cable is NOT plugged into an electrical outlet - removed the cover on the bottom rear of the refrigerator - using a flat blade screw driver pry the cover off the side of the compressor - remove the old relay - remove the wires from the old relay and install them on the new relay in the same location - install the new relay on the compressor connections - snap the cover back on the compressor - replace the cover - power the refrigerator on - the compressor should start and run normally

I watched the repair video. My son followed my instructions. He removed the ice-maker. The back panel was frozen, so we chipped and waited for the ice to thaw. There are three wires to remove from the old fan. My son used his cell phone to take a picture of the correct wiring. He used needle nose pliers to get the motor off the bracket. I used hot water to thaw the ice, so we could get the back panel to fit properly. If we weren't waiting for the ice to melt, we could have finished in about a half-hour. I'm 86 years old, and have carpel tunnel. My son is 63. Together, we make a good team.

Went online and located the right part numbers. When delivery happened I put it together and all is fine now.

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip

much like yout video. However I got the mounting bracket upside down and had to do the job twice. When finished it worked perfectly. Great! However in Missouri outside temperature was over 100 and refrig was in shed. My beer got warm. Thank you.

After removing two rear plastic panels, (very easy). The fan is easily accessable. Two more screws to remove the fan brace and remove three wires from the fan and its out. Reverse the process and its finished. The propellor is not part of the fan motor order and you can remove the old propellor and put on new motor (easy). One step that is not accounted for is the removal of a flexable plastic "nut" on the fan shaft. This piece holds and connects the fan to the fan brace. You will understand this when you compare the new fan with the old and see the plastic "nut" sleeve on the old fan. Simply pull it off and put on new motor shaft (it simply slides on and off the shaft).

Thanks to some reviews we found online about replacing gaskets, ours went very smoothly. One person said to soak the gasket in hot water, which we did til it was very soft. Installed like a breeze. Then, the same person said to tape the door closed after installation, we did that too. The gasket looks like it was professionally installed and we have never done it before. Thanks!

I unpluged fridge then took the cap off the fan moter then took the three nuts off the fan then unplugged the three wires. And visaversa, ta! Ra! Fridge works just like new.

removed the old unit and put in the the new one, no other parts were needed

About 7 screws total. ! screw holding side shelf removed. 2 screws holding bottom rear panel removed. 2 screws holding rear panel top removed. 2 small screws holding the fan motor bracket. Remove 3 wire connectors from fan motor and then remove plastic fan(pull off) Then just reverse the procedure. As always please make sure unit is unplugged. If there is ice buildup in freezer use a blow dryer to melt and then dry unit. Very easy fix!

Replaced valve on back of freezer and replaced the ice maker tray. Took about 20 minutes and had new ice cubes 1/2 hour later. It's working like it did when it was new

I unplugged the refrigerator(for safety). Using a 1/4" nut driver I removed 1 screw holding ice tray rack. I then removed the 2 screws holding the lower shroud inside the freezer section. I then removed 1 screw holding cover plate where ice maker would be and disconnected the ground wire from the back panel. I then removed the 2 screws holding the back panel in place. This allowed me to removed back panel from from inside the freezer. I removed the fan blades from evaporator motor by pulling straight away from motor. I was then able to disconnect the power wires and the ground wire from evaporator motor. Using the 1/4" nut driver I removed the 2 screws holding the front motor bracket and removed the evaporator motor from its bracket housing. Using the an electrical cord that i had fashioned with two female spade connectors on each lead of the wire, i connected these to the motor and plugged the male end of the electrical cord into a standard 110v outlet to verify that the motor was in fact the defective component. The motor did not operate so I replaced the evaporator motor with a new motor and put everything back in reverse order. The refrigerator is running like a champ and keeping the refrigerator contents a cool 42 degrees. Thanks PartSelect.com

You gotta disconnect the power and turn off water remove the shelf the ice maker and everything in freezer take evaporator fan cover off then loosen the 2 upper ice maker bolts and remove the lower icemaker bolt push up on ice maker to remove disconnect plug and remove plate unhook ground then remove the evaporator fan cover then remove the 2 screws holding the back panel in and the trim on the ducting on the bottom of freezer also 2 screws. Then r/r fan and foll this in reverse to re assemble

Unplugged the refrigerator and then unloaded the freezer. removed the panel at the back of the freezer to expose the fan. Carefully unclipped the wiring harness and then removed the fan motor. Swapped the fan from the old motor to the new one (I did use a hair drier to warm the plastic fan to make it easier to remove) and reassembled the fan and panel. Simple and easy, and now the refrigerator works just like new.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.